Cheb

Late spring to early autumn is the best time. Summer days are warm and the old town is lively, while spring and autumn are cooler and quieter. Winters are cold and grey, with some snow.

The biggest event is the Wallenstein Festival (Valdštejnské slavnosti). It usually takes place in late summer and fills the square and castle with costumed processions, knights' tournaments and a historical market. It is not held every year, so check the dates before you travel.

King George of Poděbrady Square is the heart of the old town. Near its upper end stands Špalíček, a tight block of eleven medieval half-timbered houses split by a narrow lane. The square also houses the Gallery of Fine Arts, with a strong collection of 20th-century Czech art.

Cheb Castle was built around 1180 for Emperor Frederick I Barbarossa. Climb the Black Tower for views over the roofs, and see the rare two-storey Romanesque chapel.

Cheb Museum occupies the Pachelbel House, where the general Albrecht von Wallenstein was murdered in 1634. The exhibits cover his death, the town's history and regional folk culture.

Church of St. Nicholas and St. Elizabeth is the town's main church. It combines a Romanesque core with a Gothic hall interior and two tall towers that dominate the skyline.

Church of the Annunciation was consecrated in 1285 and is one of the oldest Gothic hall churches in Bohemia. Its quiet late-Gothic cloister has remains of old wall paintings.

Church of St. Clare is a Baroque church by Christoph Dientzenhofer. Today it is used for art exhibitions and concerts.

Komorní hůrka is a small extinct volcano on the edge of town. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe came here several times to study its origin.

Bismarck Tower stands on Zelená hora hill west of the centre. The 1909 stone tower gives wide views over the Cheb basin and the hills along the border; check opening times before you go.

A few things worth doing beyond sightseeing:

• Hear a concert in a historic church: Church of St. Clare and Church of the Annunciation are both used as concert venues, especially in summer.
• Cycle along the Ohře: Follow the river route to the nearby reservoirs and villages, or ride over the border into Bavaria.
• Follow Wallenstein's last days: Start at the museum, then trace the places linked to the 1634 murders in the old town and at the castle.

Cheb is a good base for the West Bohemian spa towns and the nearby German border area. Trips are listed from closest to farthest.

• Františkovy Lázně: ≈10 min by train or bus. A small, elegant spa town with classical yellow buildings and a large park.
• Soos National Nature Reserve: ≈15 min by car. A nature reserve with peat bogs and bubbling carbon dioxide springs, explored on a wooden boardwalk.
• Waldsassen (Germany): ≈20 min by car. The Baroque basilica and the carved library hall of the abbey are worth the short trip across the border.
• Mariánské Lázně: ≈30 min by train. A grand spa town with a cast-iron colonnade and a singing fountain.
• Karlovy Vary: ≈1 hour by train or car. The largest and best-known Czech spa town, with hot springs and ornate colonnades.
• Loket: ≈1 hour by train or car. A castle town on a tight bend of the Ohře river.

Karlovy Vary, Mariánské Lázně and Františkovy Lázně together form part of the UNESCO-listed Great Spa Towns of Europe.

Cheb sits at the centre of the West Bohemian spa triangle.

• Spa towns: Františkovy Lázně is right next door, and Mariánské Lázně is a short train ride to the south-east.
• Border area: Aš lies in the far north-western tip of the country, surrounded by Germany on three sides.

• By air: The most practical international airports are Prague (about 170 km away) and Nuremberg (about 140 km away). From Prague airport, take a bus or train to the city first and continue by train to Cheb.
• By train: Cheb is a major rail junction. Direct trains run to Prague (≈3 h), Plzeň (≈1.5 h), Karlovy Vary and Mariánské Lázně. Direct regional trains run to Nuremberg in Germany in about 1 h 45 min. Book Czech trains on České dráhy.
• By car: Cheb is on the main road between Karlovy Vary and the German motorway network. The border crossing to Bavaria is only a few minutes away.

• On foot: The old town is small, and the station, the square and the castle are all within about 15 minutes' walk of each other.
• Public transit: A small network of city buses links the centre with the outer districts. You can buy a single ticket from the driver, and bank cards are accepted on board. Details are on the Dopravní podnik Cheb site.
• Cycling: The Ohře (Eger) river cycle route passes through town and is a pleasant way to reach the surrounding villages.

• Is a car worth it?: Not for the town itself, which is compact and walkable. A car is useful for the nature reserves, small border villages and the German side.
• Parking: The historic centre has limited, paid street parking. Use the car parks at the edge of the old town and walk in.
• Border and tolls: There are no regular border checks. Czech motorways need an electronic vignette, while German motorways are free for cars.

Cheb's food is typical of West Bohemia, with hearty meat dishes, dumplings and good local beer. The long German history also shows in cakes and pastries similar to those in nearby Bavaria.

The easiest place to eat is around the main square and Špalíček, where cafés and restaurants put tables outside in summer. For a wider choice, the spa towns nearby have more restaurants and traditional spa cafés.

Cheb is generally safe for visitors. Use normal care with bags in the evening around the railway station.

The markets near the German border, run mostly by Vietnamese traders, sell cheap clothes and goods, including many fakes. Counterfeit goods can be confiscated at German customs, so avoid them if you continue to Germany. Tap water is safe to drink.

The Holy Roman Emperor Frederick I Barbarossa built an imperial palace here in the late 12th century. The Black Tower and the double chapel inside Cheb Castle still show this period. Cheb was an imperial town until 1322, when it was pledged to the King of Bohemia. It has belonged to the Bohemian crown ever since.

In 1459 King George of Poděbrady signed the Treaty of Eger with Saxony here. It fixed a border that is still largely in place today, and the main square carries his name. In 1634, the general Albrecht von Wallenstein was murdered in the house that is now Cheb Museum.

For most of its history Cheb was a German-speaking town. After the Second World War, the German population was expelled, and the town was resettled by Czechs. The restored old town around King George of Poděbrady Square is the best place to see that long shared history.

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