Harrachov

Winter, from December to March, is the main season for skiing, and snow is usually reliable. Summer and early autumn are the best times for hiking, with mild days and green forests. Late autumn and early spring are quiet and often wet, and some lifts and huts close for maintenance.

The biggest annual event nearby is the Bieg Piastów cross-country ski race at Jakuszyce, just across the Polish border. It usually takes place in late February or early March and brings thousands of skiers, so book a room early for that weekend.

Mumlava Waterfall is the most visited waterfall in the Czech Republic. The Mumlava river drops about 9 m over granite rocks, and the water has cut deep round pools into the stone. An easy forest path leads there from the town centre in about 20–30 minutes.

Glass Museum is part of the Novosad & syn glassworks, which has made glass here since 1712. On a tour you can watch glassblowers shape hot glass at the furnace and see the historic grinding shop. The museum shows glass from the factory's long history.

Mamutí můstek is one of the few ski flying hills in the world. It is part of the Čerťák jumping complex on the slope of Čertova hora, which hosted the Ski Flying World Championships four times. The big hills are no longer used for competitions and are in poor condition, but they are still a striking sight from the valley.

Harrachov Ski Resort covers the slopes of Čertova hora above the town. A chairlift runs from the valley, and in summer it serves hikers and mountain bikers.

Church of St. Wenceslas is the town's parish church, built in 1822–1828. Its glass altar and large glass chandelier were made in the local glassworks.

Mining Museum is set in a former mine near the Mumlava valley. You can see old mining machines and walk into an underground gallery, where it stays cool all year.

Šindelka is a small museum of forestry and hunting in a historic granite building. It explains how people once cut and floated timber in these mountains.

Ski Museum has a large collection of old skis and trophies. It tells the story of skiing and ski jumping in the Giant Mountains.

The best moments in Harrachov happen outdoors, in every season.

• Cross-country skiing towards Poland: Groomed trails lead from Harrachov to the large cross-country centre at Jakuszyce, just across the border. You can ski between two countries in one day.
• Soak in a beer spa: The glassworks brewery runs a beer spa, where you bathe in a tub with brewing ingredients and drink the local beer.
• Hike to the source of the Elbe: Walk up the Mumlava valley to Vosecká bouda, a historic mountain hut on the main ridge, then continue across the meadows to the spring of the Elbe river.
• Ride the summer toboggan: Bobová dráha Harrachov is a 1 km steel track down the hillside, with a rope park next to it. It is a good choice for families.
• Watch the frozen waterfall: In a cold winter, Mumlava Waterfall partly freezes into walls of ice. The short walk there is also pleasant on snowshoes.

Harrachov is close to Poland and to two mountain ranges, so good day trips are short. They are listed from closest to farthest.

• Szklarska Poręba — about 15 min by car, or a short train ride across the border. This Polish mountain resort has a lift up to Szrenica, waterfalls and many restaurants.
• Kořenov — about 15 min by car or train. Ride the rack railway line from Tanvald, the steepest railway line in the country, and visit the small railway museum at Kořenov station.
• Jizera Mountains — about 20–30 min by car. Quiet forests, peat bogs and the lonely hamlet of Jizerka make this a calm alternative to the busier Giant Mountains.
• Špindlerův Mlýn — about 45 min by car. This is the largest ski and hiking resort in the Czech Giant Mountains, set on the young Elbe river.
• Liberec — about 1 hour by car or 1.5 hours by train. The regional capital has a grand town hall, a zoo and the Ještěd tower on the mountain above the city.

Harrachov sits at the western end of the Giant Mountains, where they meet the Jizera Mountains.

• Nearby towns: Rokytnice nad Jizerou is the next ski resort to the south, about 10 minutes away. Jilemnice is a small historic town in the foothills, known for its ski museum.
• Across the border: Szklarska Poręba is the Polish resort on the other side of the pass.

• By air: The nearest large airport is Prague Václav Havel Airport, about 150 km away. The drive takes about 2 hours. By public transport, go into Prague and continue by bus.
• By bus: Direct buses run from Prague to Harrachov and take about 2.5–3 hours. Buses stop at the bus station in the town centre.
• By train: Trains run on the line from Liberec via Tanvald to Harrachov, and some continue to Szklarska Poręba in Poland. From Prague, the trip takes about 3–3.5 hours with changes. Harrachov station is in the Nový Svět area, about 3 km west of the centre. Check times on České dráhy.

• Public transport: Local buses connect the railway station, the town centre and the nearby villages. Harrachov is part of the regional IDOL network, and you can buy a ticket from the driver. Timetables are on IDOL.
• Taxi: Taxis are few and must be booked by phone. Ride-hailing apps do not operate here.
• On foot / cycling: The town is long and spread out along the valley, so expect some walking between its parts. Marked trails start right in town. In summer, mountain biking is popular, and forest roads lead up towards the ridge.

• Is a car worth it?: A car is useful for day trips, trailheads and the ski areas in nearby towns. For a stay focused on Harrachov itself, buses and walking are enough.
• Parking: There are paid car parks in the centre and at the lifts below Čertova hora. They fill up on winter weekends, so arrive early.
• Winter driving: Winter tyres are required when roads are snowy or icy, which is common here from November to April. Snow chains can be useful on side roads.
• Border: The main road continues over the pass to Poland. There are no border checks, but carry your passport or ID card.

Mountain food here is hearty. Look for kyselo, a sour soup made with fermented dough, mushrooms and egg, which is the classic dish of the Giant Mountains. Mountain huts on the trails serve simple meals such as goulash, dumplings and soups.

For a distinctive meal, go to Pivovar Novosad. It brews unfiltered beer on site, and you can watch the glassmakers at the furnaces while you eat. Otherwise, most restaurants are in the centre around the bus station and the main road.

Harrachov is a safe town, and crime against visitors is rare. The main risks come from the mountains.

• Weather: Conditions on the ridge can change fast, with fog, strong wind and snow even in late spring. Take warm layers and stay on marked trails.
• Mountain rescue: The Horská služba (mountain rescue) has a station in town. In an emergency in the mountains, call 1210 or the general emergency number 112.
• Winter: Above the treeline there can be avalanche danger. Check the Horská služba reports before you go.
• Ticks: Ticks are common in forests and meadows from spring to autumn, so check your skin after hiking.

Harrachov grew up around glassworks in the early 18th century. The settlement took its name from the noble Harrach family, who owned the local estate. The glassworks was founded in 1712 and still works today, which makes it one of the longest-running glassworks in Bohemia. Its products still decorate Church of St. Wenceslas.

For centuries, most people in the area spoke German, and the town was called Harrachsdorf. Glassmaking, forestry and later mining at the site of today's Mining Museum shaped local life. After 1945, the German population was expelled, and new Czech settlers arrived.

In the 20th century, Harrachov became a winter sports centre. The Čerťák complex with Mamutí můstek opened in 1980 and hosted the Ski Flying World Championships in 1983, 1992, 2002 and 2014.

Quick practical facts for the Czech Republic at a glance: