Ethiopia

Amharic is the federal working language, and Afaan Oromo, Tigrinya, Somali and Afar are also official. The country has more than 80 languages in total. English is taught in schools and is spoken in hotels, airlines and by tour guides. Outside tourist services, English is limited.

Amharic uses its own Ge'ez script (fidel). Many street signs in Addis Ababa also show English, but in smaller towns signs, menus and bus destinations are often only in Amharic.

Ethiopian calendar and time: Ethiopia has its own calendar, about seven to eight years behind the Western one, with New Year in September. Local time is also often counted from 6 am, so "3 o'clock" can mean 9 am. Always confirm whether a time or date is in local or Western format.

• SIM cards: Ethio Telecom has the widest coverage across the country. Safaricom Ethiopia is strong in Addis Ababa and larger towns. Both sell tourist data packages at shops in the Bole International Airport arrivals hall. You need your passport to register a SIM.
• eSIM: few international eSIMs work well nationwide. Check which local network an eSIM uses before you buy.
• Shutdowns: the government sometimes cuts mobile internet or blocks social media, often in conflict regions or during unrest. Download offline maps and save important bookings before you travel.

• Tap water: do not drink it. Bottled water is cheap and sold everywhere.
• Vaccinations: yellow fever vaccination is recommended for most of the country and is required if you arrive from a country with yellow fever risk. Also check routine vaccines, hepatitis A, typhoid and rabies with a travel clinic.
• Malaria: there is malaria risk in lowland areas, including the Rift Valley, the south and the far west. Most highland cities, including Addis Ababa, are above the risk zone. Ask a travel clinic about tablets for your route.
• Altitude: Addis Ababa lies at about 2,350 m, and trekking areas go much higher. Take the first days slowly and drink plenty of water.
• Pharmacies and hospitals: pharmacies are common in towns. Good private hospitals are mainly in the capital. Medical care in rural areas is basic, so bring travel insurance that covers evacuation.

Most visitors need a visa. Only citizens of Kenya and Djibouti can enter without one.

• E-visa: apply online before you travel at Ethiopian e-Visa portal. Tourist e-visas are available for 30 or 90 days, single entry. Processing usually takes a few working days.
• Entry point: the e-visa is only valid for a first arrival at Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa. If you plan to arrive by land, get a visa from an Ethiopian embassy.
• Visa on arrival: now available only to very few nationalities. Do not rely on it.
• Passport: it should be valid for at least six months from your arrival date.

Visa and entry requirements change frequently. Verify current requirements with the official immigration authority or your country's embassy before travel.

• Churches and mosques: dress modestly and remove your shoes before you enter. Women usually cover their hair in Orthodox churches, and some monasteries do not admit women at all.
• Greetings: people greet each other at length and shake hands. Use your right hand to give, receive and eat.
• Fasting: Orthodox Christians fast on most Wednesdays and Fridays and for long periods before Easter. During fasts, many restaurants serve only vegan dishes.
• Photography: ask before you photograph people. This is especially important in the Omo Valley, where villagers usually expect a fee per photo.
• Coffee ceremony: if a family invites you to a coffee ceremony, it is polite to stay for at least the first cups.
• Bargaining: bargain calmly in markets and with souvenir sellers. Hotel and restaurant prices are fixed.

Religious festivals shape the year. The big Orthodox festivals bring large processions, and hotels in festival towns fill up months ahead. Easter and the Muslim holidays move each year, so check the dates for your trip. On public holidays most offices and banks close, and transport gets busy.

Offices usually work Monday to Friday with a lunch break, and many also open on Saturday morning. Shops and markets open long hours, but many close on Sunday morning during church.

• By air: domestic flights are the most practical way to cover long distances. Ethiopian Airlines flies from Addis Ababa to more than 20 domestic airports. Passengers who arrive on an Ethiopian Airlines international ticket can often get cheaper domestic fares at an Ethiopian Airlines office in the city.
• By train: an electric railway links Addis Ababa with Dire Dawa and continues to Djibouti. Passenger trains leave from Furi-Lebu station on the edge of the city a few times a week, and the journey takes about 10 hours. It is a good way to reach Harar.
• By bus: long-distance buses such as Selam Bus and Sky Bus connect the capital with major towns. They leave early in the morning. Book a day ahead at the company office.
• With a driver: most visitors hire a car with a driver through a tour operator, especially for the south, the Rift Valley lakes and national parks.

Ethiopian food is based on injera, a large, soft and slightly sour flatbread made from teff. You tear off pieces with your right hand and use them to pick up stews called wat. Popular dishes include doro wat (spicy chicken stew with egg), tibs (fried meat with onion and pepper), shiro (chickpea stew) and kitfo (minced beef, often served raw). Because of the many Orthodox fasting days, vegan food is easy to find, especially the colourful mixed platter called beyaynetu.

Breakfast is often firfir (injera shredded into sauce) or ful (spiced beans). Lunch is the main meal. People often share one large plate. Ethiopia is where coffee comes from, and the traditional coffee ceremony with three rounds of coffee is part of daily life. Other drinks include tej (honey wine), tella (home-brewed beer) and good local bottled beers. Fresh fruit juices, often served in layers, are sold in juice bars in every town.

Cities

• Addis Ababa is the capital and the country's main entry point. Its museums tell the story of Ethiopia's history, from early humans to the emperors.
• Harar is an old walled Muslim city in the east, with narrow lanes, colourful houses and hyena feeding at night.
• Dire Dawa is a railway town and the usual gateway to Harar.

The historic north

Lalibela, Gondar, Bahir Dar on Lake Tana, and Aksum form the classic "Historic Route". It is famous for rock-hewn churches, royal castles, island monasteries and ancient obelisks. Check current travel advice for Amhara Region and Tigray Region before planning a trip here.

Mountains and nature

• Simien Mountains National Park has dramatic cliffs, high trekking and gelada monkeys. It lies in Amhara Region, so check current travel advice first.
• The Bale Mountains in the south-east, reached from Goba, are home to the rare Ethiopian wolf.
• The Rift Valley lakes, such as Lake Hawassa, Lake Langano and Lake Chamo, are good for birdwatching and relaxing.

The south and the Danakil

• Konso has UNESCO-listed stone-terraced villages, and the Omo Valley further west is home to many traditional communities.
• The Danakil Depression in Afar Region is one of the hottest places on Earth, with the salt flats of Assale Salt Lake and the colourful Dallol hot springs. It lies close to the Eritrean border, so check current travel advice and go only with an experienced operator.