Lesina

Late May, June and September are the best months: warm, sunny and less crowded. July and August are hot and busy, with the warmest sea. Many restaurants and boat trips close from November to March, and winter is wet and quiet.

The biggest annual event is Za križen, a night procession on Holy Thursday before Easter. Six villages in the middle of the island take part, including Jelsa and Vrboska. It is on the UNESCO intangible heritage list.

• Stari Grad Plain was farmed by Greek settlers about 2,400 years ago. The field walls and the grid of the original plots are still visible, and the land is still used for grapes and olives. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
• Tvrdalj Castle in Stari Grad is the fortified house of the poet Petar Hektorović. It has a walled garden and a fishpond inside.
• The Fortica fortress above Hvar town gives the best view of the harbour and the Pakleni Islands. The walk up from the old town is short.
• The Arsenal in Hvar town holds a public theatre that opened in 1612. It is one of the oldest in Europe.
• The main square of Hvar town is the largest in Dalmatia. St. Stephen's Cathedral stands at one end, and the Franciscan monastery has a small museum on the waterfront.
• The Pakleni Islands are a group of pine-covered islets just off Hvar town. They have small beaches and quiet coves.
• Vrboska has a fortified 16th-century church on a narrow inlet. It is a pretty stop between Stari Grad and Jelsa.

• Cycle through the Stari Grad Plain on field tracks between the old stone walls.
• Visit the lavender villages in June and early July, when the fields bloom. Velo Grablje is a well-known one.
• Take a boat to the Pakleni Islands and swim in a quiet cove.
• Hike up Sveti Nikola, the island's highest peak at about 630 m, for views across the islands.
• Swim at the pebble coves on the south coast. Most need a walk or a short boat ride.
• Taste Plavac Mali wine at a family cellar on the south coast.

Hvar is already an island trip. These places are reachable for a day from the island or from Hvar town.

• Pakleni Islands: a short boat ride from Hvar town. Good for swimming and a long lunch.
• Brač: the next island north. Bol has the Zlatni Rat beach. Boat links run in season, so check times first.
• Vis: a more remote island, mostly reached from Split. Plan it as a full day or an overnight stay.
• Split: about 1 to 2 hours by sea. Diocletian's Palace is the main reason to go.

Stari Grad is the ferry town in the middle of the island. For other islands and the mainland gateway, see day trips.

• By air: there is no commercial airport on Hvar. Most travelers fly into Split (SPU) and continue by sea. Dubrovnik (DBV) works too, with a summer boat link to Hvar town.
• By car ferry: the main link is Split to Stari Grad, about 2 hours. Book a car space ahead in summer. A second car ferry crosses from Drvenik on the mainland to Sućuraj at the east end. Jadrolinija runs both lines.
• By catamaran: foot-passenger boats from Split reach Hvar town in about 1 hour. In summer some boats also link Hvar with Dubrovnik and other islands.
• From Split: Split is the best base for the sea crossing.

• Bus: island buses link Hvar town, Stari Grad and Jelsa. Service is thinner outside summer.
• Car or scooter: the best way to reach villages and quiet beaches. Rentals are available in the main towns.
• Water taxi: small boats run from Hvar town to the Pakleni Islands in season.
• Taxi: available in the main towns. Fares to far villages are high.
• On foot or by bike: the old towns are walkable. The flat Stari Grad Plain is good for cycling. The rest of the island is hilly.

• Car: worth it for exploring beyond Hvar town. Roads are narrow and winding. Many beaches and wine villages have no bus.
• Parking: parking in Hvar town is limited and fills early in summer. Park outside the centre and walk in. The old town is for pedestrians.
• Ferry: bring the car on the Split to Stari Grad ferry. Reserve a place ahead in summer.

Look for gregada, a fish stew often linked to Hvar, and for peka, meat or octopus baked under embers. Order peka a few hours ahead. Local olive oil, honey and lavender products are good gifts.

The island makes red Plavac Mali wine from steep south-facing vineyards near Ivan Dolac and Sveta Nedjelja. For food, try the harbour fronts of Stari Grad and Jelsa. Small konobas in hill villages such as Velo Grablje and Brusje are more relaxed than the busy waterfront of Hvar town.

Hvar is very safe. Petty theft is rare, but keep valuables out of sight on crowded beaches and boats.

• Hvar town is a party destination in summer. Noise is common late at night.
• Walking through town in swimwear or shirtless can bring an on-the-spot fine. Cover up away from the beach.
• Sea urchins live on rocky shores. Wear water shoes on rocks.
• Summers are dry. Follow local rules on fires in pine woods.
• Pharmacies and a health centre are in the main towns. The nearest large hospital is on the mainland.

Greek settlers from Paros founded Pharos, today's Stari Grad, in 384 BC. Their field system survives in the Stari Grad Plain.

Venice ruled Hvar from 1420 to 1797. The island became an important naval base, and Hvar town grew behind new walls. The Fortica fortress and the Arsenal come from this period. Turkish raiders damaged the town in 1571, and the Arsenal was rebuilt.

Writers and poets lived on the island in the 16th century. Among them was Petar Hektorović, who built the Tvrdalj Castle in Stari Grad. The Benedictine nuns of Hvar town still make lace from agave threads.

Quick practical facts for Croatia at a glance: