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English is the official language, and all signs, menus and official information are in English. Among themselves, locals often speak Montserrat Creole, an English-based Creole with a strong local accent and its own words. People switch to standard English easily when speaking with visitors.

Tap water comes from mountain springs and is generally fine to drink. After heavy rain, storms or ashfall, switch to bottled water.

Dengue and Zika are present. Use insect repellent, especially at dawn and dusk. There is one small hospital and a few health centres. Serious cases need evacuation to a nearby island, and medical flights can only leave in daylight. Good travel insurance with evacuation cover is essential.

There are only a couple of pharmacies, and some medicines can be out of stock. Bring enough of any prescription medicine for your whole stay.

Many visitors, including British citizens, can stay for up to six months without a visa. Other nationalities should check whether they need a visa before booking. All flights connect through Antigua or St Maarten, so you must also meet the entry rules of your connecting island.

Every visitor must complete the online immigration and customs form. It opens 72 hours before your travel date. Save or print the receipt and show it on arrival: Montserrat immigration and customs portal. A departure tax applies when you leave, and it is usually included in the air fare.

Visa and entry requirements change frequently. Verify current requirements with the official immigration authority or your country's embassy before travel.

Montserrat is small, friendly and quite conservative. People greet each other. Say "good morning" or "good afternoon" before you ask a question in a shop or on the street.

• Dress: swimwear is for the beach only. Cover up in shops, restaurants and villages.
• Church: Sunday is a quiet church day. Dress neatly if you attend a service.
• Photos: ask before you take close-up photos of people.
• Pace: service is relaxed and unhurried. Patience goes a long way.

Shops, banks and government offices close on public holidays. The two big celebrations are the St Patrick's festival in March and the Christmas festival season, which runs from December until 1 January. During both, many events take place and accommodation fills up early.

Many shops close on Sunday. Many small businesses keep short or flexible hours, so call ahead before you make a special trip.

All roads and towns are in the north, because the south is a closed exclusion zone. There are no traffic lights.

• By air: small planes fly to John A. Osborne Airport from Antigua in about 20 minutes, and from St Maarten in about 50 minutes. Seats are few, so book early.
• By sea: the passenger ferry from Antigua is suspended until further notice. Check the Montserrat Tourism Authority for updates.
• By minibus: private minivans with a licence plate starting with "H" work as buses. They have no timetable and stop anywhere on the main road when you wave.
• By taxi or tour: taxis wait at the airport and can be booked by your accommodation. Taxis have no meters, so agree the fare before the ride. Many drivers also work as tour guides, which is the easiest way to see the viewpoints.
• By car: renting a car gives the most freedom. You need a temporary local licence, see the Driving section.

Food on Montserrat is simple, home-style Caribbean cooking. Breakfast is often saltfish with fried johnny cakes. Lunch is the main meal for many locals, and small takeaways serve plates of chicken, fish, rice and peas and local vegetables. Dinner is usually eaten early, and only a few restaurants stay open late.

The national dish is goat water, a rich, spiced goat stew. It is served at festivals, family events and on weekends. Fresh fish is common, often grilled. The island's former signature dish, "mountain chicken", is a giant frog that is now critically endangered and protected, so it is no longer served. For drinks, try fresh local juices such as soursop, passion fruit or sorrel, and rum punch. Most locals eat at small family restaurants, roadside grills and beach bars rather than formal dining rooms.