Tobago

Tobago is warm and humid all year. The dry season runs from about January to May, with the most sunshine and calm seas, so it is the main holiday season. From June to December rain showers are frequent, often short and heavy, and the forest is at its greenest. The island lies south of the main hurricane belt and is rarely hit, but tropical storms can still cause problems in the wet season.

The biggest annual event is the Tobago Heritage Festival, held from mid-July until Emancipation Day on 1 August. Villages across the island stage traditional weddings, music, dance and food, and it is the best time to see Tobago's own culture. Easter is also lively, with the goat and crab races in Buccoo.

Pigeon Point Heritage Park is Tobago's most famous beach, with calm turquoise water, white sand and the thatched jetty seen on many island postcards. It has showers, bars and water-sports rentals, and there is a small entry fee.

Store Bay, close to the airport, has calm water and a row of food huts. It is also the main departure point for glass-bottom boat trips.

Buccoo Reef is a protected marine park off the southwest coast. Glass-bottom boats take you over the coral, and most trips stop for snorkelling.

Nylon Pool is a shallow, sandy pool in the middle of the sea, near Buccoo Reef. The water is only waist-deep, and boat trips stop here for a swim.

Main Ridge Forest Reserve was protected in 1776 and is the oldest protected rainforest in the Western Hemisphere. Its best-known path is Gilpin Trace, a rainforest walk with streams, small waterfalls and many birds. A local guide helps you spot the birds.

Argyle Waterfalls & Nature Park near Roxborough is the island's tallest waterfall, about 54 m high, with three levels and pools for swimming. The walk from the entrance takes about 15 to 20 minutes, and an entry fee is charged.

Fort King George stands on a hill above Scarborough with wide views over the coast. The British built it in 1777, and today it has old cannons, a lighthouse and the small Tobago Museum.

Englishman's Bay on the north coast is a quiet, undeveloped bay with soft sand and forest right behind the beach. It is a good stop on a drive along the northern coast road.

Little Tobago is a small island off Speyside and an important seabird sanctuary. Boats from Speyside take you there for a guided walk and snorkelling on the way.

Some of the best moments on Tobago are tied to the sea, the forest and village life.

• Glass-bottom boat trip: ride over the coral of Buccoo Reef, snorkel, and finish with a swim in the waist-deep Nylon Pool. Boats leave from Store Bay, Pigeon Point Heritage Park and Buccoo.
• Early-morning birdwatching: walk Gilpin Trace with a local guide just after sunrise, when the forest birds are most active.
• Diving at Speyside: the northeast coast has strong currents, healthy coral and big fish. Dive shops in Speyside and Charlotteville run trips for certified divers.
• Watching nesting turtles: from about April to July, leatherback turtles come ashore at night to lay eggs on several beaches. Go with a local conservation group's guided turtle watch.
• Goat and crab races: on Easter Tuesday, Buccoo hosts a festival where jockeys run barefoot alongside racing goats.

All of Tobago's sights are within a two-hour drive, so most trips stay on the island. For a day out somewhere different, take the short flight to Trinidad.

• Port of Spain: a 25-minute flight to Piarco, then 30 to 45 minutes by road, or 3 to 3.5 hours by fast ferry. The capital has the Queen's Park Savannah, colonial mansions, busy markets and a much bigger food and music scene.
• Caroni Bird Sanctuary: a short drive from Trinidad's Piarco airport. Evening boat tours through the mangroves show flocks of scarlet ibis flying in to roost.
• Maracas Bay: north of Port of Spain, on a winding road over the mountains. It is Trinidad's best-known beach and the home of the fried shark sandwich called bake and shark.

On Tobago itself, Scarborough is the island's capital and main port, with the ferry terminal, the market and Fort King George.

The larger island of Trinidad has a very different character: busier, more urban and more industrial. Its capital Port of Spain is the centre of the country's famous Carnival.

• By air: A.N.R. Robinson International Airport is at Crown Point, in the southwest of the island. The Crown Point hotels and the main beaches are 5 to 15 minutes away by taxi. There are a few direct international flights, such as a weekly British Airways flight from London Gatwick, Caribbean Airlines from New York JFK, and seasonal Condor flights from Frankfurt. Airports Authority of Trinidad and Tobago
• Via Trinidad: many visitors fly to Piarco International Airport in Trinidad and connect on Caribbean Airlines. The flight to Tobago takes about 25 minutes, with many departures a day.
• By ferry: fast ferries run daily between Port of Spain and Scarborough. The crossing takes about 3 to 3.5 hours, and the ferries also carry cars. Book ahead, especially at weekends and holidays. Inter-Island Ferry booking

• Bus: public buses run from Scarborough to most villages. Fares are only a few TT dollars. Buy tickets before you board, at the bus terminal or from registered ticket sellers.
• Route taxis: shared taxis pick up passengers along the main roads. Licensed taxis have number plates that start with H. Agree on the fare first if you want a private trip.
• Taxi and tours: taxis wait at the airport and the main hotels. For the north and east, many visitors hire a driver-guide for the day.
• On foot and cycling: the Crown Point area, with the airport, Store Bay and Pigeon Point, is easy to walk. Elsewhere, distances are long and roads are narrow and steep, so cycling is only for fit, experienced riders.

• Is a car worth it?: yes, if you want to explore beyond Crown Point. Rental cars are easy to find at the airport. Traffic drives on the left.
• Roads: the coast roads in the north and east are narrow, winding and steep, with potholes, sharp bends and few street lights. Watch for taxis stopping suddenly, people walking and animals on the road. Avoid driving these roads after dark.
• Fuel: there are only a few petrol stations on the island, and only one near the airport is open 24 hours. Fill up before you head north or east.
• Licence: a foreign driving licence is valid for up to 3 months.
• Parking: free and easy at most beaches and sights. Do not leave valuables visible in a parked car.

Tobago's signature dish is curry crab and dumplings: crab cooked in a spicy curry sauce and served with soft, flat flour dumplings. Look also for fresh fish, callaloo, macaroni pie and dishes made with local root vegetables such as dasheen. The island celebrates these vegetables at the Blue Food Festival in Bloody Bay each October.

The easiest place to try local food is the row of food huts at Store Bay, where small kitchens serve crab and dumplings, roti and fresh juices at lunchtime. In the fishing villages of Castara, Charlotteville and Speyside, small beach bars and family restaurants cook the day's catch.

Tobago is calmer than Trinidad, and most visits are trouble-free, but crime exists here too. Robbery and theft from cars and beaches happen, especially in quiet places.

• Do not leave bags or phones unattended on the beach, and avoid deserted beaches and walking alone at night.
• If you rent a villa, check that it has good security, such as lights, window grilles and a guard.
• Watch your drink in bars, and be careful about invitations from strangers.
• The Atlantic coast in the east has strong waves and currents. Swim at the calmer beaches of the Caribbean side and follow local advice.
• Sun and insects are the most common health issues. Use strong sunscreen and insect repellent, especially at dawn and dusk.
• Drink bottled or filtered water rather than tap water.
• The island's main hospital is in Scarborough.

Tobago has one of the most turbulent histories in the Caribbean. After the Indigenous peoples, European powers fought over the island for nearly two centuries. It changed hands 33 times, more than any other Caribbean island. Settlers came from the Netherlands, France, Britain and even the small Baltic duchy of Courland, which founded a colony at Plymouth in 1654. The ruins of Fort James stand in Plymouth today.

The British took final control in 1814. By then Tobago was covered with sugar estates worked by enslaved Africans. You can still see this past at Arnos Vale Waterwheel and Nature Park, which has a restored waterwheel from an old sugar mill. Fort King George, begun by the British in 1777, was also held by the French for a time.

In 1889 Britain joined Tobago to Trinidad, and the two islands became one independent country in 1962. In 1963 Hurricane Flora caused heavy damage, and in the following decades tourism became the main industry. Since 1980 the Tobago House of Assembly has governed local affairs, and the island keeps a strong identity of its own.

Quick practical facts for Trinidad and Tobago at a glance: