Эсватини

English and siSwati are the official languages. English is used in government, business, hotels and on road signs, so visitors rarely have trouble communicating. In rural areas older people may speak mainly siSwati. A greeting in siSwati is always appreciated and often starts a friendly conversation.

• SIM cards: MTN Eswatini and Eswatini Mobile sell prepaid SIM cards and data bundles in Mbabane, Manzini and shopping centres. Roaming on a South African SIM works but is expensive.
• Coverage: mobile signal is good in towns and along the main roads, but patchy in the mountains and inside some game reserves. Download offline maps before you go.

• Malaria: malaria occurs in most areas outside Mbabane and the highlands, especially in the eastern lowveld around Hlane and Mkhaya. See a travel clinic about tablets and use insect repellent after dusk.
• Tap water: treated tap water in the main towns is usually safe, but many travellers stick to bottled or filtered water, especially in rural areas.
• Bilharzia: do not swim or wade in rivers, lakes or dams.
• HIV: Eswatini has one of the highest HIV rates in the world, so take the usual precautions.
• Medical care: pharmacies are found in all larger towns, but medicines can run short. Serious cases are usually transferred to hospitals in South Africa, so take out travel insurance that covers medical evacuation. Hospitals may ask for proof of insurance or payment before treatment.
• Vaccinations: check routine vaccines before you travel. You need a yellow fever certificate if you arrive from, or have transited through, a country with yellow fever risk.

Citizens of many countries, including the UK, the USA, Canada, Australia, most EU countries and Eswatini's southern African neighbours, can visit without a visa for up to 30 days. Other nationalities can apply online through the Eswatini eVisa portal or at an Eswatini embassy.

• Passport: make sure it is valid for at least six months beyond your stay and have at least two blank pages. If you also travel through South Africa, keep extra blank pages for South African stamps.
• Entry stamp: check that your passport is stamped with the correct date at the border. A wrong stamp can lead to a ban on re-entering the country for up to a year.
• Border posts: most road crossings are not open 24 hours. Check opening times before you leave and allow time for queues.

Visa and entry requirements change frequently. Verify current requirements with the official immigration authority or your country's embassy before travel.

Swazi culture places high value on respect, especially towards elders and the royal family.

• Greetings: always greet people before asking a question, even in a shop. A handshake is common; many people support the right forearm with the left hand as a sign of respect.
• Dress: dress modestly in towns and villages. Beachwear belongs at the pool or lodge only.
• Photography: ask before photographing people. Do not photograph royal residences, police, military sites or officials. At ceremonies such as the Umhlanga, follow the rules announced by the organisers.
• Politics: avoid public discussion of local politics or the monarchy, including on social media.
• Bargaining: light bargaining is acceptable at craft markets, but prices at craft shops and centres are fixed.
• Same-sex relationships: same-sex sexual activity is illegal. Public displays of affection by any couple are uncommon.

On public holidays banks and government offices close, and many shops keep reduced hours. Transport is busier just before and after major holidays, and border posts get long queues around Easter and Christmas.

Most shops open from about 8:00 to 17:00 on weekdays and close early on Saturday afternoon. Many small shops close on Sunday, but supermarkets in shopping centres usually open. Large royal ceremonies, such as the Umhlanga Reed Dance and the Incwala, can also close roads and offices on the main days.

Distances are short: most places are within two or three hours' drive of each other. There is no passenger rail service.

• By car: a rental car is by far the easiest way to see the reserves and the countryside. Most visitors rent in South Africa and drive in; check that the rental company allows cross-border travel and gives you the right papers. Eswatini drives on the left, like South Africa.
• By minibus taxi (kombi): shared minibuses link all towns from the main bus ranks in Mbabane and Manzini. They are cheap and frequent, but often crowded and driven fast. Pay the driver or conductor in cash.
• By coach: airport coaches run between Johannesburg and Mbabane; this is the safest public-transport option into the country.
• By air: there are no domestic flights. King Mswati III International Airport, east of Manzini, has flights to Johannesburg and a few other southern African cities.
• Private taxis: available in the main towns. Agree the fare before you get in.

Everyday Swazi food is simple and filling. Maize porridge is the staple, usually eaten with stewed meat, vegetables or beans. Breakfast is often soft porridge or bread and tea. Lunch is the main meal for many families, and dinner is usually eaten early.

Look for sishwala, a thick maize porridge, and emasi, a thick soured milk often eaten with it. Grilled meat from roadside braai stands, often called shisa nyama, is popular at weekends. Markets sell seasonal fruit such as pineapples, avocados and litchis. In towns and tourist areas, restaurants serve familiar South African and international food.

For drinks, try the local Sibebe lager. In late summer, villages brew buganu, a traditional marula fruit beer. Rooibos tea and fresh fruit juice are widely available.

The country is small, so most trips combine several of these areas in a few days.

Towns and valleys

• Mbabane: the capital, set in the western highlands close to the main border crossing with South Africa. Sibebe Rock, a huge granite dome for hiking, is just outside town.
• Ezulwini Valley and Lobamba: the cultural and royal heart of the country, with the parliament, Swaziland National Museum and many lodges and craft shops. Swazi Cultural Village and Mantenga Falls are in the Mantenga Nature Reserve here.
• Malkerns Valley: farmland south of Ezulwini, known for craft centres, candle and textile workshops, and weekend music events.
• Manzini: the largest town and commercial centre, with a busy market and the main bus rank.

Parks and reserves

• Close to the capital: Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary is the easiest reserve to reach, with walking, cycling and horse-riding trails.
• Eastern lowveld: Hlane Royal National Park is the largest single conservation area and has lions, elephants and rhino. Mkhaya Game Reserve is best known for black and white rhino and is visited only on pre-booked guided trips.
• North-west highlands: Malolotja Nature Reserve has high grassland, waterfalls and long hiking trails. Near Piggs Peak, Phophonyane Falls tumbles over some of the oldest rocks on Earth. On the way, stop at Ngwenya Glass, a workshop making glass from recycled bottles.