Ельба

Late spring and early autumn are the best times: warm, sunny and less crowded. July and August are hot and dry, and also the busiest and most expensive months. The sea is warm enough for swimming from about June to October. Winters are mild and wet, and many hotels and restaurants close.

• Monte Capanne is the highest point on the island, at about 1,018 m. The summit has wide views over the coast and, on clear days, towards Corsica. Walking trails lead to the top, and a cable car also runs from near Marciana.
• Museo nazionale delle residenze Napoleoniche Villa di San Martino was Napoleon's country house near Portoferraio. It is now a museum of his time on the island.
• Palazzina dei Mulini was his town residence in the upper part of Portoferraio. It is the other Napoleonic house, with sea views.
• Forte Stella is a star-shaped fort above Portoferraio harbour. Walk the walls for views of the bay.
• Castello del Volterraio is a ruined castle on a rocky peak in the east. A steep path leads up. The views over the island are worth the climb.
• Parco Minerario dell'Isola d'Elba - Museo Dei Minerali e dell'Arte Mineraria in Rio tells the story of Elba's iron and mineral mining. Guided visits to the former Rio mine leave from the museum; book ahead.
• Villa romana delle Grotte are the ruins of a large Roman villa by the sea near Portoferraio.
• Spiaggia di Fetovaia is a sandy beach on the south-west coast, popular for its clear water.

• Beach days: sandy beaches include Spiaggia della Biodola and Spiaggia di Cavoli. Pebble coves such as Spiaggia Sansone and Enfola have clear water for snorkelling.
• Walk to the sanctuary: a path with shrines leads from Marciana up to Madonna del Monte. It is a short climb.
• Dive or snorkel: diving schools and snorkel trips run in summer along the rocky coast.
• Ride the hills: rent a mountain bike and follow the coastal and mountain tracks. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons.
• Boat trip around the coast: summer boat tours show coves that roads do not reach.

Elba is an island, so most day trips need a boat. These are the best options:

• Pianosa: a flat, quiet island south-west of Elba. You can only visit with a park guide, and daily numbers are limited. Boats leave from Marina di Campo in season. Book ahead.
• Baratti and Populonia: an Etruscan burial ground and hilltop town on the mainland coast. Take the ferry to Piombino (about 1 hour), then drive about 20 minutes. The Etruscans worked Elba's iron ore.

• On Elba: Portoferraio is the main town and port. Other bases include Porto Azzurro, Marciana, Marciana Marina, Capoliveri and Marina di Campo.
• Other islands: Isola del Giglio is another island of the Tuscan Archipelago. Ferries to it leave from the mainland, not from Elba.
• On the mainland: Castiglione della Pescaia is a beach town on the Maremma coast. Livorno is a port city on the way from Pisa.

• By ferry: this is the main way to arrive. Ferries run from Piombino on the mainland to Portoferraio in about 1 hour. Faster passenger-only boats take about 40 minutes. There are also crossings to Rio Marina (about 45 minutes) and Cavo (about 20 minutes). Book car space early for summer. Toremar is one of the operators.
• By train: regional trains from Pisa and Livorno reach Piombino Marittima station. The station is next to the ferry port.
• By air: the main gateways are Pisa Galileo Galilei Airport (PSA) and Florence Airport (FLR). Pisa is the easier choice. From either, continue by train or car to Piombino. Elba has a small airport at Marina di Campo with a few seasonal flights.

• Bus: buses connect Portoferraio with the main towns and many beaches. Some lines run only from mid-June to mid-September. A multi-day Elba pass is sold in the at bus app. See Elba buses.
• Car or scooter: the most flexible option. Rental is easy in Portoferraio and the larger resorts.
• Cycling: possible, but hills are steep.

• Is a car worth it? Yes, for most stays. Buses are limited, and the best beaches and villages are spread across the island.
• Bringing a car: ferry space for cars is limited and expensive in July and August. Renting on the island is often easier.
• Roads: mountain roads are narrow and winding. Allow extra time.
• Parking: beach and village car parks fill by late morning in summer. Paid parking is common.

Seafood is the base of local cooking. Look for salted anchovies, octopus salad and stoccafisso alla riese, a dried cod dish from Rio. For dessert, try schiaccia briaca, a sweet cake made with Aleatico wine. Elba also makes its own wines, including Ansonica white and Aleatico dessert wine.

For a meal, go to the harbour fronts of Portoferraio, Marciana Marina, Porto Azzurro and Rio Marina. In the hill villages such as Capoliveri, small restaurants cluster around the main squares.

Elba is very safe for visitors. Do not leave valuables in a parked car at a beach.

• Sun and heat: summer sun is very strong. Carry water on hikes and start early.
• Sea: currents can be strong on exposed beaches. Jellyfish and sea urchins occur on rocky shores.
• Fire: dry summer weather brings a risk of forest fires. Follow local rules in the woods.
• Weather and ferries: strong wind can cancel boats, especially the fast ones. Leave a buffer before flights.
• Medical care: the main hospital is in Portoferraio, and every town has a pharmacy. Serious cases may go to the mainland.

Iron made Elba famous. The Etruscans and Romans mined it, and mining continued until 1981. Today you can learn about it at Parco Minerario dell'Isola d'Elba - Museo Dei Minerali e dell'Arte Mineraria.

In the Middle Ages the island was ruled by Pisa and later by the Appiani family of Piombino.

In 1548 Cosimo I de' Medici founded the port town of Cosmopoli, now Portoferraio. The Medici built Forte Stella and Forte Falcone to guard it.

Napoleon arrived on 4 May 1814 and left on 26 February 1815. He governed Elba as a small sovereign state. You can still visit his two homes, Palazzina dei Mulini and Museo nazionale delle residenze Napoleoniche Villa di San Martino.

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