Lesotho

Sesotho and English are the main official languages. English is used in government, business and schools, and most people in towns speak it. In remote highland villages, English is less common, so a few Sesotho greetings help a lot.

Greetings matter. Always say hello before you ask a question or start a purchase.

• SIM cards: the two mobile networks are Vodacom Lesotho and Econet Telecom Lesotho. Buy a SIM card at their shops in Maseru or larger towns. You need your passport to register the SIM.
• Coverage: signal is good in the lowland towns but patchy or absent in deep valleys and on high passes. Download offline maps before you drive into the mountains.
• South African SIMs: a South African SIM card works in Lesotho only on expensive roaming.

• Tap water: treated tap water in Maseru is usually fine, but outside the towns drink bottled, boiled or filtered water. Streams are often used by livestock.
• Altitude and sun: much of the country lies above 2,000 metres. Take it easy on your first day in the highlands and use strong sun protection, even in winter.
• Cold: highland nights are cold all year and freezing in winter. Pack warm layers.
• Pharmacies: available in Maseru and district towns. Bring any prescription medicines you need, since supplies in rural areas are limited.
• Medical care: good hospital care is limited. Serious cases are usually transferred to South Africa, so travel insurance with medical evacuation is strongly recommended.
• HIV: Lesotho has one of the highest HIV rates in the world. Take the usual precautions.
• Vaccinations: no special vaccinations are required for most travellers. A yellow fever certificate is required only if you arrive from, or transit for more than 12 hours through, a country with yellow fever risk.

Many nationalities can enter Lesotho without a visa for short stays, including citizens of the EU, the United Kingdom, the United States and most Commonwealth countries. The permitted stay is often only 14 days, so check yours. Other travellers need a visa. The online eVisa system has been suspended, so apply through a Lesotho embassy or the Department of Immigration well before you travel.

Almost every visitor arrives through South Africa. Check that you also meet South Africa's entry rules. If you need a South African visa, get one that allows at least two entries, because you will re-enter South Africa when you leave Lesotho. Most land border posts have limited opening hours, and some smaller ones close in the late afternoon.

Visa and entry requirements change frequently. Verify current requirements with the official immigration authority or your country's embassy before travel.

• Greetings: greet everyone before starting a conversation, even in a shop. A handshake is common; supporting your right forearm with your left hand shows respect.
• Photography: ask before you photograph people, especially in villages. Some may ask for a small payment.
• Villages: when you walk through a village, greet people and ask before crossing fields or entering a homestead. Many rural lodges can arrange a visit with a local guide.
• Dress: dress modestly in villages and churches.
• Traditional dress: the Basotho blanket and the conical mokorotlo straw hat are national symbols. You will see blankets worn as everyday coats, especially in the cold highlands.

On public holidays, government offices and banks close, and many shops open for shorter hours. Minibus taxis are often full before and after long weekends.

Shops in towns usually open Monday to Friday during the day and close early on Saturday. Many shops are closed on Sunday. Border posts, banks and fuel stations in small towns keep shorter hours, so plan fuel stops and border crossings for the daytime.

Lesotho has no passenger railway and no regular domestic flights, so you travel by road. Traffic drives on the left, as in South Africa.

• By car: the best way to explore. Main roads between the lowland towns are paved, and paved mountain roads reach Semonkong, Katse and Mokhotlong. A 4x4 is needed for many gravel roads and for the steep Sani Pass into South Africa.
• By minibus taxi and bus: shared minibus taxis and buses link Maseru with every district town. They leave from the main taxi ranks when full, are cheap, and are paid in cash. Journeys into the highlands are slow and schedules are loose.
• In Maseru: shared "4+1" sedan taxis run fixed routes around town for a small cash fare.
• Tours and lodges: many highland lodges arrange transfers, pony treks and guided hikes, which is the easiest option without a car.
• Distances: plan for slow driving. A trip from Maseru to Semonkong takes about 3 hours, and a trip across the highlands to Mokhotlong takes most of a day.

Basotho food is simple and filling, built for cold mountain life. The staple is papa, a stiff maize porridge eaten with the hands, served with a stew of meat, beans or moroho (cooked greens such as spinach or cabbage). Mutton and beef are popular, often grilled over fire. Breakfast is often motoho, a slightly sour fermented sorghum porridge. Lunch is usually the main meal.

For snacks, look for makoenya (fried dough balls) and grilled corn cobs sold at taxi ranks and roadside stalls. Home-brewed sorghum beer, joala, is shared at village gatherings; a white or yellow flag on a pole outside a house often means it is for sale. The local lager is Maluti. In towns, most people eat at small canteens, takeaways and supermarket food counters, while lodges serve set dinners to guests.

Maseru and the lowlands

• Maseru is the capital and the usual arrival point, just across the border from South Africa. Thaba-Bosiu, the birthplace of the Basotho nation, is about 25 km east. The San paintings at Ha Baroana Rock Art are another easy trip from the capital.
• Morija, south of Maseru, is home to the Morija Museum & Archives, the best place to learn about Basotho history.
• Teyateyaneng is known for its weaving workshops, where you can buy handmade tapestries and rugs. The Ha Kome Cave Dwellings, mud homes built into a cliff, are nearby.

The highlands

• Semonkong is the base for Maletsunyane Falls and for pony treks.
• Katse, in the central highlands, is the site of the Katse Dam. The Mohale Dam lies closer to Maseru, on the mountain road toward Thaba-Tseka.
• Mokhotlong is a remote town in the northeast and the gateway to the top of Sani Pass and Thabana Ntlenyana.
• In the north, Tšehlanyane National Park protects forested valleys, and Afri-Ski Resort offers skiing in winter. Liphofung Cave with its rock art is near Butha-Buthe.
• Sehlabathebe National Park, in the far southeast, is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site shared with South Africa's Drakensberg.

The south

• Quthing has dinosaur footprints and San rock art close to town.
• Qacha's Nek and Mohale's Hoek are quiet district towns on the southern road loop.