Province de Ninh Binh

May and June are good, when the rice turns golden. September and October are also good, with clear skies and a second harvest. December to February is cool, grey and often misty. July and August are hot and humid, with storms.

Plan around the rice harvest in late May to early June and in September to October. The fields look their best then.

• Trang An Boat Tour Start - Route 1, 2 and 3 is the starting point for boat rides through caves and between limestone peaks. It is a UNESCO World Heritage landscape.
• Tam Coc Boat Ride is a quiet rowing-boat ride along a river through three caves. Boatwomen often row with their feet.
• Bich Dong is a pagoda built into the rock in three levels near Tam Coc.
• Hoa Lu ancient capital was the capital of Vietnam in the 10th century. Two small temples remain.
• King Dinh temple honours King Dinh Tien Hoang, who founded the first independent dynasty.
• King Le Temple honours King Le Dai Hanh, who followed him on the throne.
• Bai Dinh Temple is a very large Buddhist temple complex with long corridors and giant statues.
• Phat Diem Stone Cathedral is a large stone church in a mix of Vietnamese and European style, from the 19th century.

• Rowing-boat ride: A slow boat trip through caves and rice fields. Go at the start or end of the day for fewer crowds.
• Bike through the rice fields: Cycle on quiet lanes between the peaks.
• Sunset from a viewpoint: Climb Mua Cave or another peak for the evening light.
• Cooking class in a village: Learn local dishes with a family.
• Evening boat visit to a pagoda: Some cave and pagoda routes are quiet late in the day.

• Mua Cave viewpoint: a climb of about 500 steps to a peak with a view over the river and rice fields. Go early or late to avoid the heat.
• Cuc Phuong National Park: about 1 hour by car. Cuc Phuong National Park is Vietnam's oldest national park, with forest walks and a primate rescue centre.
• Phat Diem: about 30 to 45 min by car. A large stone church on the edge of the delta.
• Bai Dinh and Trang An: both are inside the province and can fill a full day. See the Trang An boat ride in the top sights.
• Hanoi: about 2 hours away by car or train, for the return trip.

• In the area: Trang An is the UNESCO landscape of caves and rivers. Cuc Phuong National Park is the forest park to the west.
• North: Hanoi is the usual starting point and the main gateway.
• South: Thanh Hoa lies just beyond the province border.

• By train: Trains from Hanoi take about 2 to 2.5 hours to Ninh Binh station. Tam Coc is about 8 km away by taxi or bike. Vietnam Railways
• By bus: Minibuses and limousine vans run from Hanoi to Ninh Binh and Tam Coc in about 2 hours. Hotels can book a seat.
• By car: The expressway from Hanoi is the fastest road. Many travellers book a car with a driver for a day trip.
• By air: There is no airport. Visitors fly into Hanoi and continue by road or rail.

• Cycling: Bicycles and electric bikes are the best way to see Tam Coc. Roads are flat, and hotels rent bikes for a small fee.
• Taxi and Grab: Used for Bai Dinh, Trang An and the station.
• Motorbike: Popular for visitors, but traffic on the main roads is busy.
• Boats: Rowing boats serve Tam Coc and Trang An. Buy tickets at the official ticket offices.

• Is a car worth it? Not for the villages. Bikes and taxis work well. A car with a driver is useful for a day trip from Hanoi.
• Parking: Hotels, ticket offices and sights have parking, but it is limited at peak times.
• Restrictions: Village lanes are narrow and busy with bikes and motorbikes.

Ninh Binh is known for goat meat, served in many ways, and for com chay, crispy burnt rice. Another local dish is eel noodles. Mountain snails and fresh river fish are common.

Eat in the small restaurants around Tam Coc and in Ninh Binh town. Many family guesthouses serve home meals.

Ninh Binh is safe and relaxed.

• Agree the price for boats and bike rental before you start. Tipping the rowers is common, but not required.
• Hot weather is strong in summer. Bring water, a hat and sun cream.
• Mua Cave steps are steep and slippery when wet. Wear good shoes.
• Bring a rain jacket in the wet season. Boat tours stop in storms.

Ninh Binh was the first capital of an independent Vietnam. In 968 Dinh Tien Hoang founded his kingdom at Hoa Lu ancient capital. His memory is kept at King Dinh temple, and the next ruler's at King Le Temple.

The capital moved to Hanoi in 1010. The limestone caves later served as hiding places in several wars. Phat Diem Stone Cathedral comes from the 19th century. UNESCO listed the Trang An landscape in 2014.

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