Malawi

English and Chichewa are the official languages. English is used in government, business and tourism, and most people in towns and lodges speak it. In villages, fewer people speak English well. Chichewa is spoken across the centre and south, while Tumbuka is common in the north. A few words of Chichewa, especially a greeting and zikomo (thank you), are always welcome.

• SIM cards: Airtel and TNM are the two mobile networks. Buy a local SIM at an official shop in a city and bring your passport.
• Coverage: good in towns and along main roads, but weak or absent in parts of the national parks, on the Nyika Plateau and on Mount Mulanje.
• Power: frequent power cuts can take mobile masts and lodge Wi-Fi offline for hours.

• Malaria: the risk is high throughout the country, including the lakeshore. Take antimalarial tablets, use repellent and sleep under a mosquito net. See a doctor quickly if you get a fever, even after you return home.
• Bilharzia: this parasite lives in fresh water, including parts of Lake Malawi. Official health advice is to avoid swimming, wading or bathing in fresh water. If you do swim, get tested a few weeks after your trip; treatment is simple.
• Water: do not drink tap water. Use bottled or filtered water.
• Vaccinations: hepatitis A, tetanus and typhoid are recommended for all travelers. Ask a travel clinic about rabies, cholera and others. Cholera outbreaks happen, mainly in the rainy season.
• Yellow fever: you need a vaccination certificate if you arrive from a country with yellow fever risk.
• Medical care: hospitals outside Lilongwe and Blantyre are basic. Carry a first-aid kit and your own medicines, and get travel insurance that covers medical evacuation.
• Altitude: the Nyika Plateau and Mount Mulanje are high enough for altitude sickness in some people.

Malawi's visa rules have changed several times in recent years. Malawi now requires a visa from most visitors, including UK and US citizens. Some nationalities can still enter without a visa.

• eVisa or visa on arrival: you can apply online before you travel at the official Malawi eVisa portal. Many nationalities can also get a visa on arrival at main entry points. Applying in advance is recommended.
• Fees: a single-entry visa costs about USD 50–75, depending on nationality. Multiple-entry visas cost more. eVisa fees are paid online by Visa or Mastercard.
• Passport: it must be valid for at least 6 months after arrival, with a blank page for the entry stamp.
• Health form: you must complete a traveller health check form. You need a yellow fever certificate if you arrive from a country with yellow fever risk.

Visa and entry requirements change frequently. Verify current requirements with the official immigration authority or your country's embassy before travel.

• Greetings: greet people before you ask a question or start business. A handshake, often with your left hand touching your right forearm, shows respect.
• Dress: dress modestly outside beach areas. Cover your shoulders and knees in villages, towns and religious sites. Many lakeshore communities, such as around Mangochi, are mainly Muslim.
• Swimwear: keep swimwear for the beach and your lodge.
• Photography: ask before you photograph people. Avoid photographing police, soldiers, airports and government buildings.
• Hands: use your right hand, or both hands, to give or receive money and gifts.
• Bargaining: bargaining is normal at craft markets and curio stalls. Prices in shops and supermarkets are fixed.
• Public affection: keep it discreet, and be aware that same-sex sexual activity is illegal.

On public holidays, government offices and banks close, and many shops open shorter hours. Buses and lodges keep running, but book ahead around Christmas and Easter.

Shops and offices usually open from about 08:00 to 17:00 on weekdays, and many close early on Saturday. Most shops close on Sunday, though some supermarkets in cities open. Markets start early in the morning. Muslim festivals such as Eid are widely celebrated along the southern lakeshore.

Distances in Malawi are short on the map, but travel is slow. Most visitors use a private driver or a tour operator for safari and lakeshore trips.

• By air: the main international airports are Kamuzu International Airport near Lilongwe and Chileka Airport near Blantyre. Small planes fly to some safari camps and to Likoma.
• By bus: large coaches link Lilongwe, Blantyre and Mzuzu. Minibuses serve almost every town, but they are crowded and accidents are common. Fuel shortages can delay services.
• By boat: boats link the lakeshore with the islands, including from Nkhata Bay. Lake ferry services are irregular, so check schedules locally.
• By taxi: use a taxi booked by your hotel, especially at night. Agree the fare before you start.

Malawi drives on the left.

The base of every Malawian meal is nsima, a stiff porridge made from maize flour. You eat it with your right hand, rolling a small ball and dipping it into a relish called ndiwo. Common relishes are beans, leafy greens, chicken, beef or fish. Breakfast is often tea with bread or phala, a thin maize porridge. Lunch is usually the main meal.

Fish from Lake Malawi is the national favourite. Try chambo, a tilapia usually grilled or fried, and usipa, small sardine-like fish that are dried or fried. On the street you will find roasted maize, fried dough balls called mandasi, and grilled meat. Tea from the estates around Thyolo and Mulanje is excellent.

For drinks, the local Carlsberg lager is brewed in Blantyre, and Malawi Gin is a popular local spirit. Thobwa is a slightly sour, non-alcoholic drink made from maize or millet. Locals eat at small local restaurants and market stalls, while lodges serve a mix of local and international food.

The lake

• Lake Malawi National Park: a UNESCO World Heritage Site at the southern end of the lake, famous for its colourful cichlid fish. Cape Maclear is the main base for snorkelling, kayaking and boat trips.
• Nkhata Bay: a relaxed bay on the northern shore with guesthouses, snorkelling and boats to the islands.
• Likoma: a quiet island district near the Mozambique shore, with beaches and the large Cathedral of St Peter.

Wildlife

• Liwonde National Park: Malawi's best-known safari park, along the Shire River. Boat safaris pass hippos and crocodiles, and the park has elephants, black rhinos, lions and cheetahs.
• Majete Wildlife Reserve: a park southwest of Blantyre where elephants, black rhinos, lions and other species have been reintroduced. Kapichira Falls on the Shire River is nearby.
• Nkhotakota Game Reserve and Kasungu National Park: larger, wilder reserves in the centre, with few visitors.
• Vwaza Marsh and Lengwe National Park: smaller parks in the north and far south.

Mountains and plateaus

• Mount Mulanje: a huge granite massif rising to about 3,000 m, with multi-day hikes between mountain huts.
• Nyika Plateau: rolling grasslands above 2,000 m in the north, with zebras, antelopes and wildflowers.
• Zomba: the old colonial capital, below the forested Zomba Plateau with its waterfalls and viewpoints. Lake Chilwa lies to the east.
• Livingstonia: a mission town high above the northern lakeshore, with the Stonehouse Museum and the nearby Manchewe Falls.

Cities and culture

• Lilongwe: the capital and main arrival point. It is spread out and has few sights, so most visitors stay only a night.
• Blantyre: the commercial centre in the south and the base for Mulanje, Zomba and Majete. The Museum of Malawi covers the country's history.
• Dedza area: the Mphunzi Rock Art Area is part of the UNESCO-listed Chongoni Rock Art Area. The nearby Chamare Museum at Mua explains Chewa, Ngoni and Yao culture.