Montenegro

Montenegrin is the official language, closely related to Serbian, Croatian, and Bosnian — speakers of any of the four generally understand each other without difficulty. Both the Latin and Cyrillic alphabets are used; Latin script dominates along the coast and in tourist materials, so navigation is not a problem.

English is widely spoken in coastal tourist towns and by younger Montenegrins. It is less common inland and among older generations, though a few words go a long way.

Montenegro is not in the EU. EU and UK phone plans' "roam like at home" allowances usually do not cover it. Check for out-of-bloc roaming charges before you arrive. Prepaid SIM cards are sold at the airports and by phone shops in every town. Bring your passport, since ID registration is required.

Coverage is solid along the coast and in the main towns, with gaps in remote mountain valleys and national parks.

Tap water is generally treated as safe to drink in cities and along the coast, though mineral content and taste vary; bottled water is a reasonable choice if you prefer it, especially in older buildings or rural areas.

Pharmacies (apoteka) are common in every town and clearly marked with a green cross; most stock everyday medicines without a prescription. Montenegro is not in the EU, so the European Health Insurance Card does not apply — travel insurance covering medical treatment is recommended. No special vaccinations are required for entry.

Citizens of the EU/Schengen area, the UK, the US, Canada, and Australia can enter Montenegro without a visa for short tourist stays, usually up to 90 days. Montenegro is not yet part of the Schengen area, so passport checks apply at the border even when arriving from a Schengen country. Travelers who need a visa should apply in advance at a Montenegrin embassy or consulate.

Visa and entry requirements change frequently. Verify current requirements with the official immigration authority or your country's embassy before travel.

Dress modestly when visiting Orthodox monasteries and churches — shoulders and knees covered for both men and women. Ostrog Monastery, one of the country's most visited pilgrimage sites, enforces this strictly, and photography is often restricted inside the churches.

A handshake is the standard greeting; among friends and family, a kiss on both cheeks is common. Ask before photographing people directly. Bargaining is not customary in shops or restaurants, though it can happen at open-air markets.

Public holidays can close shops, banks, and some restaurants, especially in smaller towns — coastal tourist areas generally stay open through the summer season regardless.

Most shops open Monday to Saturday, often with a midday break in smaller towns, and many close on Sundays outside the main tourist season. Restaurants along the coast keep long hours in summer.

• By train: A single scenic line runs from the coast at Bar through Podgorica and Kolašin toward Serbia. It crosses the Mala Rijeka viaduct, one of the highest railway bridges in the world. It's slow, but the views are worth it. Book through Željeznica Crne Gore, the national rail operator.
• By bus: Intercity coaches connect almost every town, including the coast and the mountains. They are the main way to get around without a car. Buy tickets at the station shortly before departure.
• By air: Domestic flights aren't really needed — the country is small enough that buses and driving cover it well. International flights land at Podgorica and Tivat airports.

Montenegrin cuisine has two distinct traditions that barely overlap: Mediterranean coastal cooking and hearty mountain fare. On the coast, expect fresh fish, grilled squid, and olive oil–heavy dishes similar to neighboring Croatia and Italy. Inland, meals lean on smoked meats, cheese, and cornmeal, shaped by centuries of mountain shepherding.

Breakfast is often light — bread, cheese, and coffee — while lunch is the main meal of the day, especially away from the coast. Dinner tends to be later and more relaxed, particularly in summer. Locals eat at family-run konobas rather than international chains, and portions are generous.

Rakija, a strong fruit brandy, is the traditional welcome drink and aperitif, often homemade. Coffee culture is serious and unhurried — expect to linger over a small, strong cup. Local wine, especially from the Vranac grape, pairs well with both the smoked meats and the grilled fish.

The coast curves around the dramatic Bay of Kotor, often described as Europe's southernmost fjord-like inlet. Kotor has the best-preserved walled old town on the bay, watched over by fortifications climbing the cliff above it. The small village of Perast, a few minutes up the coast, faces the two islets of Our Lady of the Rocks. Nearby Tivat and Herceg Novi round out the bay with a marina-turned-yacht-hub and a spa-town history, respectively.

South along the Adriatic, Budva is the country's main beach resort, with a walled old town of its own and the famous islet of Sveti Stefan just down the coast. Further south, Bar is a working port town, and Ulcinj closes out the coast near the Albanian border with long sandy beaches and an Ottoman-era old town.

The capital and interior center on Podgorica, a modern, low-key capital with little historic architecture left after wartime destruction. Cetinje, the old royal capital, sits in the hills above the bay and keeps a small-town, monastery-and-museum character. Nikšić is the country's second city, more industrial and rarely visited by tourists.

The mountains hold Montenegro's wildest scenery. Durmitor National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site around the town of Žabljak, has glacial lakes, the deep Tara River canyon, and extensive hiking trails. Biogradska Gora National Park protects one of Europe's last old-growth forests. Kolašin is a ski and hiking base on the scenic railway line. Near the Albanian border, Plav is the gateway to the jagged Prokletije mountains, one of the least-visited corners of the country. Just inland from the coast, Lake Skadar National Park is the largest lake in southern Europe, shared with Albania. It's known for birdwatching and boat trips through its wetlands.