Sao Tomé en Principe

Portuguese is the official language, used in government, schools, signs and menus. Many people also speak a local creole: Forro is common on São Tomé, Angolar in the south of the island, and Lung'Ie on Príncipe.

English is not widely spoken outside the larger hotels and lodges. French is sometimes understood. A few words of Portuguese help a lot, especially in markets, shared taxis and villages.

• SIM cards: the two mobile networks are CST and Unitel. Buy a local SIM in São Tomé city, as shops are rare elsewhere.
• Coverage: mobile data works in the towns and along the main roads, but it can be slow. Signal is weak or absent in the rainforest, in the far south and in much of Príncipe.

• Medical care: facilities are very limited, and the main hospital is in São Tomé city. There are no proper trauma or ambulance services. Serious cases need evacuation to Europe or another African country, so buy travel insurance that covers medical evacuation.
• Malaria: malaria is present on both islands. Talk to a travel doctor about tablets, and use insect repellent and a mosquito net.
• Yellow fever: all visitors should bring proof of yellow fever vaccination. It can be checked on arrival.
• Vaccinations: check other recommended vaccines about 8 weeks before you travel.
• Water: tap water is not safe to drink. Drink bottled or filtered water.
• Medicines: pharmacies in São Tomé city have limited stock. Bring enough of your regular medicines for the whole trip, and a basic first-aid kit.

Citizens of the EU, the UK, the US, Canada, Brazil, Portugal and many other countries can visit without a visa for a maximum of 15 days. Travellers who hold a valid Schengen or US visa can also enter visa-free for up to 15 days. To stay longer than 15 days, you need a visa.

• eVisa: travellers who need a visa, or who want to stay longer, apply online through the official eVisa portal. A reply usually comes within 7 working days, and the fee is paid at the border. At the border, eVisa travellers must also show proof of funds of about €100 per day of their stay.
• Entry fee: all visitors pay €20 on arrival.
• Passport: it should be valid for at least 6 months after your arrival date.
• Yellow fever: carry your vaccination certificate.

Visa and entry requirements change frequently. Verify current requirements with the official immigration authority or your country's embassy before travel.

• Pace: leve-leve ("take it easy") is the national attitude. Service is slow and plans change. Stay relaxed and friendly; showing impatience does not help.
• Greetings: greet people with bom dia (good morning) or boa tarde (good afternoon) before you ask a question. A handshake is normal.
• Dress: swimwear is fine on the beach, but cover up in towns, villages and churches.
• Photos: ask before you photograph people, especially in the roças, where many families live in the old plantation buildings. Some may ask for a small payment.
• Children: children often ask visitors for sweets or pens. Giving gifts to a school or a local project is better than handing things out in the street.
• Bargaining: prices in shops are fixed. Light bargaining is fine for crafts and for private tours.

On public holidays, government offices, banks and many shops close. Flights to Príncipe fill up around holidays and in the high season, so book early.

Shops usually open on weekdays from about 8:00 to 12:00 and again from about 14:00 or 15:00 to 18:00. On Saturday, many open only in the morning, and most close on Sunday. Markets start early and are busiest in the morning.

The two islands are about 150 km apart, and each has its own character. Plan at least a few days on each.

• Between the islands: small planes fly between São Tomé International Airport and Príncipe Airport most days, in well under an hour. STP Airways and Afrijet run the route. Book directly with the airline and early, as seats are few. The baggage limit is usually 15 kg. Boats between the islands are irregular and slow, and they are not a practical option for visitors.
• By shared taxi: yellow shared taxis and minibuses link São Tomé city with the towns along the coast. They leave when full and take cash only. Many taxis and motorbike taxis are in poor condition and not safe, so choose a well-kept vehicle or ask your hotel to book a driver.
• By taxi or driver: most visitors hire a car with a driver or join guided tours. It is the easiest way to reach the south of São Tomé, the roças and the trailheads.
• On Príncipe: public transport is very limited. Lodges arrange transfers and boat trips, and a driver is the usual way to get around.

Food on the islands mixes Portuguese and Central African cooking, with fresh fish, tropical fruit and starchy staples such as breadfruit, banana and taro. The best-known dish is calulu, a slow-cooked stew of smoked fish or chicken with many local herbs and palm oil. Grilled fish with fried banana or breadfruit is the everyday meal in beach cafés. Lunch is the main meal, and simple local restaurants often serve a dish of the day.

The islands were once among the world's largest cocoa producers, and their cocoa and coffee are still excellent. Try local chocolate and a cup of coffee from the highland plantations. Other drinks include vinho de palma, a fresh palm wine sold in villages, and the local beer, Rosema. Fresh fruit is everywhere, including jackfruit, papaya, mango and pineapple.

São Tomé island

• São Tomé city: the capital sits on a wide bay in the north-east. See the colonial cathedral, the busy central market and São Sebastião Museum, the national museum inside a 16th-century fort. It is the base for most trips on the island.
• The north: Roça Agostinho Neto is one of the largest old plantations, with a grand avenue and a ruined hospital. Along the coast are the bay of Lagoa Azul and quiet beaches.
• The highlands: Roça Monte Café has a small coffee museum. Nearby, São Nicolau Waterfall drops through green forest.
• The rainforest: Parque Natural Ôbo covers much of the island's centre and south. It protects many birds and plants found nowhere else. Guided hikes lead to crater lakes and to Pico de São Tomé, the highest peak at about 2,000 m.
• The south: the thin rock tower of Pico Cão Grande rises straight out of the forest. On the east coast, the sea shoots up through the rocks at Boca do Inferno. At Praia Jalé, sea turtles nest on the beach, mainly from November to February, and local guides run night walks.
• Ilhéu das Rolas: a small island off the southern tip, reached by a short boat ride. A monument marks the equator, which crosses the island.

Príncipe

• The island: Príncipe is smaller, greener and quieter, and the whole island is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. It has forest-covered peaks, empty beaches such as Praia Banana, and rich birdlife.
• Santo António: the island's quiet capital, a small town of pastel colonial houses.
• Roça Sundy: an old plantation where the British astronomer Arthur Eddington watched the solar eclipse of 29 May 1919. His measurements helped to confirm Albert Einstein's theory of general relativity.