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São Tomé and Príncipe

Country · Africa

São Tomé and Príncipe is Africa's second-smallest country: two volcanic islands and a few islets in the Gulf of Guinea, about 250 km off the coast of Gabon. The islands were uninhabited until Portuguese sailors arrived in the 15th century. They grew sugar, then coffee and cocoa, on large plantations called roças, worked by enslaved and later contract labourers. The country became independent in 1975 and is today a small, peaceful democracy.

Most of the land is steep rainforest, with waterfalls, volcanic peaks and quiet beaches. Tourism is small-scale, and much of it happens in old roças turned into guesthouses. Life follows the local motto leve-leve, "take it easy": things happen slowly, and patience is part of the trip. The islands suit hikers, birdwatchers, beach lovers and travellers who want somewhere far from the crowds.

São Tomé and Príncipe

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Money & payments

The dobra has a fixed exchange rate to the euro, so its value against the euro does not change.

STN
Cash preferred
1 STN ≈ 0.0462 USD 1 USD ≈ 21.639 STN
1 STN ≈ 0.0407 EUR 1 EUR ≈ 24.584 STN
  • Euros: euro notes are accepted in many hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and taxis. Bring clean, undamaged notes; small notes are more useful.
  • Cash first: cards are rarely accepted. A few upmarket hotels take cards, but plan to pay for almost everything in cash.
  • ATMs: there are only a few, mostly in São Tomé city, and many accept only Visa cards. Do not rely on them. Bring enough euros for your whole stay, especially for Príncipe.
  • Entry fee: every visitor pays a €20 fee on arrival, in euros, US dollars or dobras.
  • Costs: the islands are not cheap, because most goods are imported. Local cafés are good value, while lodges and imported food cost more.
Hotel (double room, per night)mid-range guesthouse or roça lodge, double room
1,200 – 3,500 STN$55.45 – $161.74
Dinner (mid-range restaurant)main course at a sit-down restaurant
300 – 700 STN$13.86 – $32.35
Inexpensive mealdish of the day at a local café
150 – 300 STN$6.93 – $13.86
Local beerlocal beer
30 – 75 STN$1.39 – $3.47
Coffee
20 – 60 STN$0.92 – $2.77
Water1.5 l bottle
30 – 60 STN$1.39 – $2.77
Transit ticketshared taxi ride
15 – 50 STN$0.69 – $2.31
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Tours & Activities

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São Tomé and Príncipe — Map

São Tomé and Príncipe — Map

Tipping

Tipping is not required, but it is welcome. In restaurants, a tip is a kind gesture for good service, and in simple cafés you can leave the small change. Taxi drivers do not expect a tip. Guides on forest hikes, boat trips and turtle watches do expect one at the end of the day.

RestaurantOptional

about 10 % for good service

TaxiNot customary
Tour guideExpected

at the end of a hike, boat trip or turtle watch

HotelOptional

small tip for porters and housekeeping

BarNot customary
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Electricity

The islands use European two-pin plugs, so most European chargers work without an adapter. Power cuts are common, so bring a power bank and a torch.

Type C
Type F
220 V · 50 Hz
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Language

Portuguese is the official language, used in government, schools, signs and menus. Many people also speak a local creole: Forro is common on São Tomé, Angolar in the south of the island, and Lung'Ie on Príncipe.

English is not widely spoken outside the larger hotels and lodges. French is sometimes understood. A few words of Portuguese help a lot, especially in markets, shared taxis and villages.

HelloOlá / Bom dia
Thank youObrigado / Obrigada
PleasePor favor
YesSim
NoNão
GoodbyeAdeus / Tchau
SorryDesculpe
How much?Quanto custa?
Where is…?Onde fica…?
HelpSocorro!
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Staying connected

  • SIM cards: the two mobile networks are CST and Unitel. Buy a local SIM in São Tomé city, as shops are rare elsewhere.
  • Coverage: mobile data works in the towns and along the main roads, but it can be slow. Signal is weak or absent in the rainforest, in the far south and in much of Príncipe.
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Safety & emergencies

São Tomé and Príncipe is one of the calmer countries in Africa, and crime rates are low. No part of the country is under an official travel warning. The US advises increased caution because of very limited medical care, not crime.

  • Theft: burglaries, pickpocketing and occasional armed robberies do happen. Do not carry large amounts of cash, and leave valuables in your room when you go to the beach.
  • Taxis: many taxis and motorbike taxis are in poor condition and unsafe. Avoid motorbike taxis, and use drivers recommended by your hotel.
  • Beaches and remote areas: avoid walking alone on empty beaches and in remote areas, especially after dark.
  • Roads: many roads are narrow, damaged and unlit. Animals walk on the roads at night, and heavy rain can cause landslides. Avoid driving outside the city after dark.
  • Hiking: forest trails are steep, muddy and poorly marked. Hire a local guide for the Obô forest and the peaks.
Police113
Ambulance222 22 22
Fire brigade112
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Health

  • Medical care: facilities are very limited, and the main hospital is in São Tomé city. There are no proper trauma or ambulance services. Serious cases need evacuation to Europe or another African country, so buy travel insurance that covers medical evacuation.
  • Malaria: malaria is present on both islands. Talk to a travel doctor about tablets, and use insect repellent and a mosquito net.
  • Yellow fever: all visitors should bring proof of yellow fever vaccination. It can be checked on arrival.
  • Vaccinations: check other recommended vaccines about 8 weeks before you travel.
  • Water: tap water is not safe to drink. Drink bottled or filtered water.
  • Medicines: pharmacies in São Tomé city have limited stock. Bring enough of your regular medicines for the whole trip, and a basic first-aid kit.
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Visas & entry

Citizens of the EU, the UK, the US, Canada, Brazil, Portugal and many other countries can visit without a visa for a maximum of 15 days. Travellers who hold a valid Schengen or US visa can also enter visa-free for up to 15 days. To stay longer than 15 days, you need a visa.

  • eVisa: travellers who need a visa, or who want to stay longer, apply online through the official eVisa portal. A reply usually comes within 7 working days, and the fee is paid at the border. At the border, eVisa travellers must also show proof of funds of about €100 per day of their stay.
  • Entry fee: all visitors pay €20 on arrival.
  • Passport: it should be valid for at least 6 months after your arrival date.
  • Yellow fever: carry your vaccination certificate.

Visa and entry requirements change frequently. Verify current requirements with the official immigration authority or your country's embassy before travel.

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Etiquette

  • Pace: leve-leve ("take it easy") is the national attitude. Service is slow and plans change. Stay relaxed and friendly; showing impatience does not help.
  • Greetings: greet people with bom dia (good morning) or boa tarde (good afternoon) before you ask a question. A handshake is normal.
  • Dress: swimwear is fine on the beach, but cover up in towns, villages and churches.
  • Photos: ask before you photograph people, especially in the roças, where many families live in the old plantation buildings. Some may ask for a small payment.
  • Children: children often ask visitors for sweets or pens. Giving gifts to a school or a local project is better than handing things out in the street.
  • Bargaining: prices in shops are fixed. Light bargaining is fine for crafts and for private tours.
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Holidays & opening hours

On public holidays, government offices, banks and many shops close. Flights to Príncipe fill up around holidays and in the high season, so book early.

Shops usually open on weekdays from about 8:00 to 12:00 and again from about 14:00 or 15:00 to 18:00. On Saturday, many open only in the morning, and most close on Sunday. Markets start early and are busiest in the morning.

Jan 1New Year's Day
Feb 3Martyrs' Day
May 1Labour Day
Jul 12Independence Day
Sep 6Armed Forces Day
Sep 30Agricultural Reform Day
Dec 21São Tomé Day
Dec 25Christmas Day
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Getting around

The two islands are about 150 km apart, and each has its own character. Plan at least a few days on each.

  • Between the islands: small planes fly between São Tomé International Airport and Príncipe Airport most days, in well under an hour. STP Airways and Afrijet run the route. Book directly with the airline and early, as seats are few. The baggage limit is usually 15 kg. Boats between the islands are irregular and slow, and they are not a practical option for visitors.
  • By shared taxi: yellow shared taxis and minibuses link São Tomé city with the towns along the coast. They leave when full and take cash only. Many taxis and motorbike taxis are in poor condition and not safe, so choose a well-kept vehicle or ask your hotel to book a driver.
  • By taxi or driver: most visitors hire a car with a driver or join guided tours. It is the easiest way to reach the south of São Tomé, the roças and the trailheads.
  • On Príncipe: public transport is very limited. Lodges arrange transfers and boat trips, and a driver is the usual way to get around.
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Driving

Many visitors hire a car with a driver instead of driving themselves. Rental cars are available in São Tomé city.

  • Licence: carry your national licence and an International Driving Permit.
  • Road conditions: the main coastal roads on São Tomé are mostly paved, but they are narrow, with potholes and sharp bends. Inland roads to the roças and trailheads are rough, and a 4x4 helps, especially in the rainy season.
  • Hazards: watch for people, dogs, goats and chickens on the road. Roads are unlit. Heavy rain can cause landslides.
  • Night driving: avoid it outside São Tomé city.
  • Fuel: stations are few and mostly in and near São Tomé city. Fill up before you head south or inland, and pay in cash.
  • Electric vehicles: there is no public charging network.
Drive on the right
No motorway vignette needed
There are no road tolls in São Tomé and Príncipe.
Petrol: GasolinaDiesel: Gasóleo
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Food & drink

Food on the islands mixes Portuguese and Central African cooking, with fresh fish, tropical fruit and starchy staples such as breadfruit, banana and taro. The best-known dish is calulu, a slow-cooked stew of smoked fish or chicken with many local herbs and palm oil. Grilled fish with fried banana or breadfruit is the everyday meal in beach cafés. Lunch is the main meal, and simple local restaurants often serve a dish of the day.

The islands were once among the world's largest cocoa producers, and their cocoa and coffee are still excellent. Try local chocolate and a cup of coffee from the highland plantations. Other drinks include vinho de palma, a fresh palm wine sold in villages, and the local beer, Rosema. Fresh fruit is everywhere, including jackfruit, papaya, mango and pineapple.

Dinner
Grilled fish  peixe grelhadoFresh fish grilled over charcoal and served with fried banana, breadfruit or rice.
Snacks & street food
Fried banana  banana fritaSlices of cooking banana fried until golden, sold as a snack or side.
Sweets & desserts
ChocolateChocolate made from the islands' own fine cocoa.
Drinks
Palm wine  vinho de palmaFresh, lightly fermented sap of the oil palm, sold in villages.
Coffee  caféArabica and robusta coffee grown on the highland plantations of São Tomé.
Signature dishes
Calulu  caluluThe national dish: smoked fish or chicken slow-cooked with many local herbs, vegetables and palm oil, served with rice or cornmeal.
Breadfruit  fruta-pãoA starchy tree fruit served boiled, roasted or fried as a side dish.
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Where to explore

São Tomé island

  • São Tomé city: the capital sits on a wide bay in the north-east. See the colonial cathedral, the busy central market and São Sebastião Museum, the national museum inside a 16th-century fort. It is the base for most trips on the island.
  • The north: Roça Agostinho Neto is one of the largest old plantations, with a grand avenue and a ruined hospital. Along the coast are the bay of Lagoa Azul and quiet beaches.
  • The highlands: Roça Monte Café has a small coffee museum. Nearby, São Nicolau Waterfall drops through green forest.
  • The rainforest: Parque Natural Ôbo covers much of the island's centre and south. It protects many birds and plants found nowhere else. Guided hikes lead to crater lakes and to Pico de São Tomé, the highest peak at about 2,000 m.
  • The south: the thin rock tower of Pico Cão Grande rises straight out of the forest. On the east coast, the sea shoots up through the rocks at Boca do Inferno. At Praia Jalé, sea turtles nest on the beach, mainly from November to February, and local guides run night walks.
  • Ilhéu das Rolas: a small island off the southern tip, reached by a short boat ride. A monument marks the equator, which crosses the island.

Príncipe

  • The island: Príncipe is smaller, greener and quieter, and the whole island is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. It has forest-covered peaks, empty beaches such as Praia Banana, and rich birdlife.
  • Santo António: the island's quiet capital, a small town of pastel colonial houses.
  • Roça Sundy: an old plantation where the British astronomer Arthur Eddington watched the solar eclipse of 29 May 1919. His measurements helped to confirm Albert Einstein's theory of general relativity.
Monumento a Gago Coutinho e Sacadura Cabral - Linha do Equador
Drive
São Sebastião Museum
Drive
Parque Natural Obô de São Tomé

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