Positano

May, June and September are the best months: warm days, a warm sea and fewer crowds than in high summer. July and August are hot and very busy, and prices peak. Ferries and most beach clubs run from about April to October. From November to March many hotels and restaurants close and rain is frequent, but the town is quiet.

The biggest event is the feast of the Assumption on 15 August, with a procession and fireworks over the bay.

Most sights sit around the main beach, at the bottom of the town. Allow time for the stairs between them.

• Spiaggia Grande is the town's main beach and its arrival point by sea. Ferries and boats leave from its small pier. Part of the beach is free, and the rest is beach clubs with sunbeds and umbrellas.
• Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta stands just above the beach. Its dome of yellow, green and blue tiles is the symbol of Positano. Inside, a Byzantine icon of the Madonna hangs above the high altar. Entry is free.
• The MAR, the Roman Archaeological Museum, lies under the same church. It shows the frescoed dining room of a Roman seaside villa buried by Vesuvius in 79 AD, and the old crypts of the church. Visits are short guided tours; book a slot ahead in summer.
• Fornillo beach is a short walk west on a cliff path. It is smaller and quieter than the main beach, with a free section and a few simple beach clubs.
• Spiaggia d'Arienzo is a small beach of sand and pebbles east of the centre. It is known for its long staircase, so many people arrive by the boat shuttle from the main pier. It keeps the sun later than the other beaches.
• Sentiero degli Dei is the coast's most famous hike, an old mule track high above the sea. It ends at Nocelle, a hamlet on the hill above Positano. Most people start at Bomerano in Agerola and walk down towards Positano.

These are the local traditions and activities worth planning around.

• The feast of the Assumption (15 August): after evening Mass, the statue of the Madonna is carried through the lanes to the beach. At midnight, fireworks are set off from the sea and light up the tiled dome.
• A boat trip along the coast: rent a small boat or join a group trip from the main pier. You see the town from the water and can swim in coves. Many trips pass the Li Galli islands, linked in legend with the sirens of Homer's Odyssey.
• Walking down from Nocelle: after the Path of the Gods, or on its own, take the local bus up to Nocelle and walk down about 1,500 steps through terraces. The views over the town are excellent. The steps end on the coast road near Arienzo; take the bus back to the centre from there, or take care on the short stretch of road.
• The feast at Montepertuso (2 July): the hamlet above the town honours the Madonna delle Grazie. Local legend says the Virgin made the hole in the mountain that gives Montepertuso its name.
• Sunset over the town: watch from the beach, from the path to Fornillo or from a terrace on Via Cristoforo Colombo, when the houses turn orange.

From about April to October, ferries are the easiest way to explore the coast. Buses run all year but are slow and crowded in summer.

Close by

• Praiano (about 15 minutes by bus): a quieter village to the east, with a small beach and good sunset views.
• Amalfi (about 20 minutes by ferry, or about 40–50 minutes by bus): the old capital of a sea republic, with its cathedral and the main bus and ferry hub of the coast.
• Sorrento (about 30 minutes by ferry, or about 50 minutes by bus): a larger town on cliffs above the sea, with shops and a railway to Naples and Pompeii.
• Ravello (about 1–1.5 hours by bus, changing in Amalfi): a hilltop town with villas and gardens high above the sea.

Islands and further afield

• Capri (about 40–50 minutes by ferry, April to October): the island of the Faraglioni rocks and the Blue Grotto. Leave early and take an afternoon boat back.
• Pompeii (about 2 hours by bus to Sorrento, then train): the Roman city buried by Vesuvius in 79 AD. Allow a full day.
• Naples (about 1.5 hours by car, longer by bus and train): a large city with an important archaeological museum and the home of pizza.

Positano is one of several bases on the coast and the Sorrento peninsula.

• Amalfi lies further east along the same coast, with Ravello and Scala on the hills above it.
• Sorrento is the gateway from Naples, at the end of the coast road and the railway.
• Capri and Anacapri share the island across the water, reached by ferry in season.
• Campania is the wider region, with Naples, Pompeii and Vesuvius.

Positano has no railway and no real port, only a small pier. Most visitors arrive through Naples and continue by road or ferry.

• By air: Naples International Airport is the main gateway, about 1.5 hours away by car. By public transport, take the airport coach to Sorrento, then the SITA bus to Positano; allow about 3 hours. A private transfer is much easier with luggage.
• By train: take a train to Naples, then the Circumvesuviana local train to Sorrento and the SITA bus to Positano. Another option is a high-speed train to Salerno, then a ferry in season. Trenitalia
• By ferry: from about April to October, ferries link Positano with Amalfi, Sorrento, Capri and Salerno. They leave from the pier on the main beach. Sailings stop in rough seas, and there are no ferries in winter.
• By bus: SITA SUD buses run along the coast road between Sorrento (about 50 minutes) and Amalfi (about 40–50 minutes). They stop at Chiesa Nuova and Sponda on the main road above the town.

• On foot: the town is built on a steep slope. One main road winds down through it, but most routes are stairways. Pack light, and expect to climb a lot.
• Local bus: small orange buses of Mobility Amalfi Coast loop through the town and climb to the hamlets of Montepertuso and Nocelle. Buy tickets before you board, at tobacconists, bars and newsstands, and validate them on the bus.
• SITA buses: for other towns, take the SITA SUD bus from the main road. Tickets are not sold on board. The 24-hour coast ticket covering both SITA and the local buses is good value. SITA SUD
• Boats: in season, small boat shuttles run from the main pier to Arienzo, Laurito and other beaches.
• Taxi: taxis are expensive. Agree the fare before you start.

• Is a car worth it?: not for a stay in town. The coast road is narrow and winding, very busy in summer, and parking is scarce and expensive. Buses and ferries reach everything a first-time visitor needs.
• Parking: the main car parks are on the road down into town, near Piazza dei Mulini. Expect high hourly rates in season. Many hotels offer paid parking or valet service; ask when you book.
• Restrictions: on peak days, only cars with odd or even plate numbers may use the coast road (SS163) between Positano and Vietri sul Mare, on alternate days, from about 10:00 to 18:00. This applies around Easter and spring holidays, in summer and on some autumn weekends. Hotel guests with a booking are exempt only on their arrival and departure trips. The dates are set each year, so check them before you drive.

Positano's cooking is based on fish and lemons. Try scialatielli, a short fresh pasta, with seafood, and the fresh fish of the day. Finish with cold limoncello or a delizia al limone, a small sponge cake filled with lemon cream.

The best places to eat cluster around the main beach and along Via Pasitea and Via Cristoforo Colombo. Restaurants with a sea view are expensive, so book ahead in summer. For simpler and cheaper food, take the local bus up to Montepertuso or Nocelle, or eat at the beach restaurants on Fornillo. A cover charge (coperto) per person is normal on the bill.

Positano is very safe. Petty theft is rare, but watch your bags on crowded buses and on the beach.

• Stairs and heat: the town is mostly steps. Wear good shoes, carry water and rest in the shade on hot days. Travellers with limited mobility should choose a hotel close to the main road.
• The coast road: much of it has no pavement. Avoid walking along it between towns.
• Hiking: paths are steep and slippery after rain. Start early in summer, and carry plenty of water.
• Sea: ferries and boat trips stop in rough seas. Keep some flexibility before a flight or train.

Rich Romans built seaside villas here. One of them was buried by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD, and its painted dining room can be seen today in the museum under Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta.

In the Middle Ages, Positano was a port of the Republic of Amalfi. It grew rich from sea trade in the 16th and 17th centuries. The church gets its icon from a legend: a ship carrying a picture of the Madonna was stuck off the coast in a storm. A voice said "Posa, posa!" ("Put it down!"), and the storm ended when the sailors brought the icon ashore.

In the 19th century the town declined, and more than half of its people emigrated, mostly to America. Positano was a poor fishing village when artists and writers began to arrive. A famous essay by John Steinbeck in 1953 helped make it a fashionable resort, and it has stayed one since.

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