Togo
Togo is a small, narrow, French-speaking country in West Africa. It runs more than 500 km from a short Atlantic coast in the south to dry savanna in the north. In one trip you can see the markets and beaches of Lomé, the lagoon villages of Lake Togo, and green hills with waterfalls around Kpalimé. The earth tower-houses of Koutammakou are a UNESCO World Heritage site, but they lie just north-east of Kandé, where the US advises against all travel. Vodun (voodoo) is part of daily life in the south, alongside Christianity and Islam.
The country suits independent travellers who like markets, village life and gentle hiking, and who are comfortable with basic infrastructure. Distances are short, and most visitors stay in the south and centre. The UK advises against all travel within 30 km of the border with Burkina Faso (except the city of Dapaong and the N1 highway to it) and against all but essential travel to the rest of the Savanes region. The US advises against all travel to the northern border region and to areas north of Kandé. Check current official advice before planning any route north of Kara.
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Money & payments
Togo uses the West African CFA franc, which is shared with seven other countries and fixed to the euro.
- Cash is needed for almost everything: markets, street food, zémidjans (motorbike taxis), bush taxis and small hotels. Carry small notes, because change is often short.
- Cards work mainly in larger hotels, supermarkets and some restaurants in Lomé. Outside Lomé, plan to pay cash.
- ATMs are mainly in Lomé and are often unreliable. Withdraw enough cash in Lomé before you travel to other towns, villages or national parks.
- Mobile money (T-Money and Flooz) is how many locals pay. You can use it too with a local SIM card.
- Daily budget: a budget traveller eating street food and using shared transport can manage on about 20,000–35,000 CFA a day. A mid-range trip with comfortable hotels, restaurant meals and a private driver costs 70,000–130,000 CFA a day or more.
Tours & Activities
Togo — Map
Tipping
Tipping is not a strong custom in local eateries or on zémidjans, but it is welcome for good service in places used to visitors. Guides on hikes, at waterfalls and in rural villages expect a tip, and so do drivers hired for the day.
round up or 5–10 % in upscale restaurants; not expected at street stalls
at the end of a hike or tour
small amount for porters and room staff
small change
Electricity
Togo uses Type C plugs at 220 V, so most European chargers work without an adapter. Power cuts happen, especially outside Lomé, so a power bank is useful.
Language
French is the official language, used in government, schools, signs and business. Ewe is the everyday language in Lomé and the south, and Kabiyè is widely spoken in the north. Many other local languages are also spoken.
English is spoken in some hotels and by some guides, but rarely elsewhere. A few words of French help a lot, and a greeting in Ewe is always appreciated in the south. Always greet people before you ask a question.
Staying connected
- SIM cards: Togocom and Moov Africa sell prepaid SIM cards and data bundles. Buy them in official shops in Lomé and the larger towns.
- Coverage: 4G works well in Lomé and the larger towns but becomes patchy in rural areas and in the hills.
- Restrictions: internet access and social media have been restricted during past political protests.
Safety & emergencies
The main security risk is in the far north. The UK advises against all travel within 30 km of the border with Burkina Faso, except for the city of Dapaong and the N1 highway leading to it from the south. It advises against all but essential travel to the rest of the Savanes region. The US advises people not to travel to the northern border region near Burkina Faso or to areas north of Kandé. The Savanes region is under a state of emergency, and foreigners need special permission from the government to travel there. Armed groups have carried out attacks and kidnappings in this area.
The rest of the country is safer, but the main risks are crime, the sea and the roads:
- Street crime: theft, pickpocketing and violent robbery are common, especially on the beaches and in the markets of Lomé. Carry little, and do not walk on the beach or in quiet streets at night.
- Sea: currents are very strong along the whole coast, and people drown every year. Do not swim without local advice.
- Roads: driving standards are poor and roads are badly lit. Avoid travel outside Lomé after dark.
- Zémidjans: motorbike taxis are cheap and everywhere, but accidents are common. Ask for a helmet and avoid them at night.
- Photography: it is illegal to photograph military sites, government buildings, police and the airport.
- Demonstrations: avoid political gatherings. Past protests in Lomé, Sokodé, Bafilo and Mango have turned violent.
- ID: carry your passport, or a copy, at all times.
Health
- Yellow fever: you must show a yellow fever vaccination certificate to enter Togo. Get the vaccine at least 10 days before you travel.
- Malaria is present all year in the whole country. Take antimalarial tablets and use insect repellent and a mosquito net. Dengue is also present.
- Water: do not drink tap water. Bottled water is sold everywhere. Avoid ice and raw salads outside good hotels.
- Medical care is basic, and very limited outside Lomé. Hospitals usually want payment before treatment. Buy travel insurance that covers medical evacuation.
- Pharmacies are common in towns. Bring any regular medicines with you. Fake medicines are sold at market stalls, so buy only in pharmacies.
- Vaccinations: check other recommended vaccines with a travel clinic at least 8 weeks before you leave.
Visas & entry
Most visitors from outside Africa need a visa, including citizens of the UK, the EU and the USA. Citizens of African countries can usually stay up to 30 days without a visa, but must fill in the online immigration form before arrival.
- E-visa: apply online at Togo Voyage – official e-visa portal at least a week before you travel. The standard tourist visa is single-entry and valid for 15 days.
- No visa on arrival: visas on arrival are suspended, so do not travel without an approved e-visa.
- Online registration: all travellers must complete an online registration form before they arrive and again before they leave.
- Documents: bring a passport valid for at least 6 months, with two blank pages, and your yellow fever certificate.
Visa and entry requirements change frequently. Verify current requirements with the official immigration authority or your country's embassy before travel.
Etiquette
- Greetings: always greet people before you ask a question or start a sale. Take time for the greeting, and shake hands with your right hand.
- Vodun: Vodun is a respected religion, not a show. At shrines and ceremonies, follow your guide and do not touch sacred objects. At Akodessawa Fetish Market, expect to pay a fee to enter and to take photos.
- Photography: always ask before you photograph people, ceremonies, shrines or markets. Many people expect a small payment.
- Villages: in rural areas, visit with a local guide and ask before entering a house or compound.
- Dress: light, modest clothing is fine. Cover shoulders and knees in mosques and churches, and in the Muslim north.
- Bargaining: bargain in markets and with taxi and zémidjan drivers. Agree the price before the ride.
- LGBT travellers: same-sex relationships are illegal and penalties are severe. Avoid public displays of affection.
Holidays & opening hours
On public holidays, government offices and banks close, and many shops close or open shorter hours. Markets and street food usually continue. Christian and Muslim festivals with moving dates are also public holidays, and the government sometimes announces extra holidays at short notice.
Many offices and shops close for a long lunch break in the early afternoon. Markets and many small shops also open on Sunday.
Getting around
There are no passenger trains or scheduled domestic flights, so all travel is by road. The main route, the N1, runs from Lomé north through Atakpamé, Sokodé and Kara.
- With a driver: hiring a car with a local driver is the easiest and safest way to see several regions. Your hotel can arrange one.
- By bus: coach companies link Lomé with Kpalimé, Atakpamé, Sokodé and Kara. Travel by day and book a seat a day ahead.
- Bush taxis: shared cars and minibuses leave from stations when full. They are cheap but crowded and often in poor condition.
- Zémidjans: motorbike taxis are the most common way to get around towns. Agree the price first and ask for a helmet. In Lomé, the Gozem app lets you book a motorbike or car taxi at a fixed price.
- To Lake Togo: drive to Agbodrafo on the coast road east of Lomé, then take a pirogue across the lake to Togoville.
- Distances: Lomé to Kpalimé takes about 2 hours, and Lomé to Kara about 6–7 hours.
Driving
Driving yourself is possible, but most visitors hire a car with a driver.
- Licence: bring an International Driving Permit together with your national licence.
- Road conditions: the N1 and the coast road are paved but busy with trucks. Many side roads are dirt and difficult in the rainy season. Avoid driving outside towns after dark.
- Motorbikes: large numbers of motorbikes weave through traffic, especially in Lomé. Drive slowly and expect sudden turns.
- Checkpoints: police checkpoints are common. Keep your passport, licence and car papers ready, and stay polite.
- Carjacking: carjackings sometimes start with a staged accident. Keep doors locked and be careful if another driver tries to stop you.
- Alcohol: drink-driving can lead to a prison sentence.
- Tolls: toll stations on the main national roads charge a small fee; pay cash.
- Fuel: stations are attended and usually take cash. Petrol is sold as "Super" and diesel as "Gasoil". Fuel sold in bottles at the roadside is often of poor quality; use proper stations.
- Electric vehicles: there is almost no public charging network, so EV travel is not practical.
Food & drink
Food in Togo is built around a starchy base served with a sauce. In the south, the staple is akoumé (also called pâte), a smooth maize dough eaten with sauces of okra, leafy greens, tomato, fish or chicken. Fufu, pounded yam, is popular everywhere and is served with a peanut or palm-nut soup. Ablo, a soft steamed maize bread, often comes with grilled fish or fried meat. Breakfast is often porridge (koko) or fried dough balls.
Street food is cheap and good: grilled fish and chicken, fried plantain, koliko (fried yam chips) and bean fritters. Most people eat at simple roadside eateries, called maquis, or buy from market stalls. Drinks include bissap (hibiscus juice), ginger juice, fresh palm wine, tchoukoutou (sorghum beer from the north) and sodabi, a strong spirit distilled from palm wine. The local lagers include Flag and Pils.
Where to explore
Lomé and the coast
- Lomé: the capital lies right on the border with Ghana. See the huge Grand Marché, famous for its cloth traders, the Independence Monument and the Togo National Museum next to it. Akodessawa Fetish Market sells animal parts, charms and other items used in Vodun.
- Lake Togo: a lagoon east of Lomé. From Agbodrafo, a pirogue crosses to Togoville, where the 1884 treaty with Germany was signed. The town has a colonial-era cathedral and many Vodun shrines. Agbodrafo also has an old slave house.
- Aného: a former colonial capital near the Benin border, with faded old buildings, a lagoon and fishing beaches.
The Plateaux
- Kpalimé: a market town in green hills, about 2 hours from Lomé. It is the best base for hiking, with a good craft centre.
- Around Kpalimé: walk up Mount Agou, the country's highest mountain, or visit Cascade de Kpimé, a waterfall in the hills north of Kpalimé. The forests around Kloto and Missahoé are known for butterflies and birds. Missahoé also has the ruins of a German colonial station.
The centre and north
- Fazao-Malfakassa National Park: the largest national park, with forested hills and waterfalls. Wildlife is hard to see and visitor facilities are basic, so go with an organised trip.
- Kara: the main town of the north, on the N1.
- Koutammakou: the land of the Batammariba people, a UNESCO World Heritage site on the border with Benin. It is known for its takienta, two-storey tower-houses of mud with granaries on top. It lies just north-east of Kandé, in the area where the US advises against all travel. Check current official advice before you go.
- The Savanes region: the far north, around Dapaong, is covered by official travel warnings and is not recommended for tourism.
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