Ivory Coast
Côte d'Ivoire is a French-speaking country on the Gulf of Guinea in West Africa. Its south has lagoons, palm-lined beaches and rainforest, and its north has open savanna, earth-built mosques and craft villages. More than 60 ethnic groups live here, and music, dance and masks are a big part of daily and festival life. Abidjan is the economic centre and main arrival point. Yamoussoukro is the official capital.
The country suits travellers who are comfortable with some independent planning. Tourist infrastructure is good around Abidjan and the nearby coast, but thinner inland. Most first visits combine Abidjan, the colonial town of Grand-Bassam, a few days on the beaches, and a trip to Yamoussoukro. Parts of the north, including areas of the Savanes and Zanzan regions, and the border areas are subject to official travel warnings, so check current advice before planning an inland route.
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Money & payments
The CFA franc is shared with other West African countries and has a fixed rate to the euro, so prices are stable.
- Cash is still needed for most everyday payments: markets, maquis (open-air eateries), shared taxis, buses and small shops. Carry small notes, because change is often short.
- Cards work in larger hotels, supermarkets and upscale restaurants in Abidjan. Outside the city, plan to pay cash.
- ATMs are common in Abidjan and larger towns. Withdraw enough before heading to rural areas.
- Mobile money (Orange Money, MTN MoMo, Moov Money and Wave) is how many locals pay. Visitors with a local SIM can use it too.
- Daily budget: a budget traveller eating at maquis and using shared transport can manage on about 25,000–40,000 CFA a day. A mid-range trip with hotels, restaurant meals and private drivers costs 80,000–150,000 CFA a day or more.
Featured Lists
Tours & Activities
Ivory Coast — Map
Tipping
Tipping is not a strong custom in everyday life. At a maquis or street stall nobody expects a tip. In upscale restaurants and hotels in Abidjan, a small tip for good service is appreciated. Guides and drivers on day tours usually expect something at the end.
5–10 % in upscale restaurants; not expected in maquis
at the end of a tour
small amount for porters and room staff
small change
Electricity
Sockets take the round two-pin European plugs at 230 V / 50 Hz. Power cuts happen from time to time, so carry a power bank.
Language
French is the official language and is used in business, signs and transport. English is spoken only in some hotels and by some younger people in Abidjan, so a few French phrases help a lot. Dioula (Jula) is the common trade language in markets and in the north. Many people also speak their own local language, such as Baoulé. In Abidjan you will also hear Nouchi, a street slang mixing French and local words. A common greeting for visitors is Akwaba, meaning "welcome".
Staying connected
- SIM cards: Orange, MTN and Moov sell prepaid SIMs at their shops and at the airport. You must show your passport to register the SIM. Orange generally has the widest coverage outside Abidjan.
- Coverage: mobile data is good in cities and along main roads, but weak or absent in remote areas and national parks.
Safety & emergencies
Several governments advise against all travel to the areas near the borders with Mali and Burkina Faso, the northern parts of the Savanes and Zanzan regions, and Comoé National Park, because of the risk of terrorist attacks and kidnapping. Some also advise against non-essential travel close to the Liberian border. The Savanes region includes Korhogo and the country's north-central savanna. Check the current official advice and map before any trip north or west. Attacks elsewhere, including in Abidjan and beach resorts, cannot be ruled out.
In the south, the main risks are ordinary crime and road safety:
- Street crime: bag snatching and pickpocketing are common in busy parts of Abidjan, especially at night. Keep phones out of sight and use a registered taxi or ride-hailing app after dark.
- Roads: accidents are frequent, and driving outside cities at night is dangerous. Armed robberies on roads in the west have happened by day and night.
- Sea: rip currents on the Atlantic beaches cause many drownings every year, and there are few lifeguards. Swim only at protected beaches or in calm lagoon water.
- Demonstrations: protests can happen, especially around elections. Avoid gatherings and expect police roadblocks.
- Documents: carry your passport at all times. Do not photograph military sites, government buildings or the airport.
Health
- Yellow fever: a vaccination certificate is required to enter the country.
- Malaria is present throughout the country all year. Take antimalarial tablets on medical advice, and use repellent and a mosquito net. Dengue is also present.
- Water: do not drink tap water. Bottled water is cheap and sold everywhere.
- Medical care: private clinics in Abidjan are of a reasonable standard but expensive. Outside Abidjan, facilities are basic, and serious cases may need evacuation. Take out travel insurance that covers medical evacuation.
- Pharmacies are easy to find in towns, marked by a green cross. A rota of duty pharmacies (pharmacies de garde) stays open at night and on Sundays.
- Screening: travellers arriving from countries with an Ebola outbreak may face health checks on arrival.
Visas & entry
Most visitors from outside West Africa need a visa, including citizens of the UK, the EU, the USA and Canada. Citizens of ECOWAS countries can enter without a visa.
- E-visa: apply online at SNEDAI – official e-visa portal before you travel. After approval, you complete the biometric registration and collect the visa on arrival at Abidjan airport. Apply at least 10 working days before you travel.
- What you need: a passport valid for at least 6 months after arrival, a return flight booking, a hotel booking or invitation letter, and a yellow fever certificate.
- Currency: you must declare foreign currency when you arrive.
Visa and entry requirements change frequently. Verify current requirements with the official immigration authority or your country's embassy before travel.
Etiquette
- Greetings matter: always say Bonjour and ask how someone is before a question or a purchase. Shake hands with everyone when you join a group, and use your right hand to give or receive things.
- Dress: people dress neatly in towns. Cover shoulders and knees at mosques, churches and in villages. Beachwear belongs on the beach.
- Villages: when visiting a village, it is polite to greet the chief first, often through a guide, and to bring a small gift or contribution.
- Sacred places: some forests, masks and ceremonies are sacred, and women or outsiders may be excluded. Follow your guide's instructions.
- Photography: ask before photographing people, and never photograph soldiers, police or official buildings.
- Bargaining is normal in markets and for taxis without meters. Agree the price before you leave.
- Relationships: same-sex relationships are not legally recognised, and attitudes are conservative. Public displays of affection are uncommon for any couple.
Holidays & opening hours
On public holidays, government offices, banks and many shops close, while markets and maquis usually stay open. Both Christian and Muslim festivals are public holidays. Muslim holiday dates follow the lunar calendar and move each year, so check dates close to your trip.
Shops usually open from about 8:00 to 18:00 or later. Some close for a midday break, especially outside Abidjan. Most shops are closed on Sunday, although supermarkets and markets in Abidjan often open.
Getting around
- By air: Air Côte d'Ivoire flies from Abidjan to Bouaké, Korhogo, San-Pédro, Man and Odienné. This saves a long day on the road for trips to the north and west. Korhogo and Odienné lie in or near northern areas covered by official travel warnings, so check current advice before booking.
- By bus: private coach companies run between Abidjan and all major towns from the bus stations in Adjamé and Yopougon. Book a seat a day ahead for long routes, and choose a larger company with a good safety record.
- Shared transport: minibuses (gbaka) and shared taxis (woro-woro) run fixed routes in towns and between nearby places. They are cheap but crowded.
- In Abidjan: orange taxis (taxis compteurs) should use the meter; agree a price if they do not. Water buses cross the lagoon between districts.
- With a driver: hiring a car with a local driver is the easiest way to reach beaches, parks and villages. Drivers know the roads and checkpoints.
Driving
Driving yourself is possible, but many visitors prefer to hire a car with a driver.
- Licence: bring an International Driving Permit together with your national licence.
- Road conditions: the motorway from Abidjan to Yamoussoukro and the coastal road to Grand-Bassam are good. Many other roads have potholes, trucks and livestock. Avoid driving outside towns after dark.
- Checkpoints: police and gendarmerie checkpoints are frequent. Keep your passport, licence and car papers ready, and stay polite.
- Doors and windows: keep doors locked and windows up in traffic, especially in Abidjan and in the west.
- Parking: in Abidjan, use guarded hotel or supermarket car parks where possible. Informal attendants will watch street parking for a small fee.
- Fuel: stations are attended and most take cash only. Petrol is sold as "Super" and diesel as "Gasoil". Fill up in larger towns, as rural stations can run dry.
- Electric vehicles: there is almost no public charging network, so EV travel is not practical.
Food & drink
Ivorian food is built on cassava, plantain, yam and rice, served with rich sauces, grilled fish or chicken. Breakfast is often bread with coffee or sweet fried dough from a street stall. Lunch is the main meal for many people. Dinner is often grilled fish with attiéké, a fermented cassava semolina that is the national staple. Try kedjenou, a slow-cooked chicken stew, and foutou, pounded plantain or yam served with palm-nut sauce. Alloco, fried ripe plantain with chilli, is the favourite street snack.
Most people eat at a maquis, an open-air eatery with plastic chairs and a grill. It is the best and cheapest place to eat and to meet locals, especially in the evening. Garba stalls sell attiéké with fried tuna for a quick lunch. For drinks, try bissap (hibiscus juice), gnamankoudji (ginger juice) and bangui (palm wine). Local lagers are sold in large bottles. Côte d'Ivoire is the world's largest cocoa producer, and Abidjan has several local chocolate makers.
Where to explore
Abidjan and the coast
- Abidjan: the largest city, built around a lagoon, with the high-rise Plateau business district, markets and a lively music and nightlife scene. Museum of Civilizations of Côte d'Ivoire has a large collection of masks and traditional objects. Banco National Park protects a patch of rainforest inside the city.
- Bingerville: the former colonial capital just east of Abidjan, with a botanical garden and the old governor's palace.
- Grand-Bassam: the first colonial capital, a UNESCO World Heritage town of faded colonial buildings between the lagoon and the ocean. National Costume Museum is in the former governor's palace. It is an easy day trip or weekend from Abidjan.
- Assinie: a long sandbar with beach resorts between the lagoon and the sea, popular on weekends. Further east, Îles Ehotilés National Park protects small forested islands in the Aby lagoon.
- West coast: Jacqueville and Grand-Lahou have quiet beaches and lagoons. Sassandra, San-Pédro and Grand-Béréby have some of the country's most beautiful coves and fishing villages.
The centre
- Yamoussoukro: the official capital, known for Basilica of Our Lady of Peace of Yamoussoukro, one of the largest churches in the world. The sacred crocodiles in the lake by the former presidential palace are another local sight.
- Bouaké: the second-largest city and a busy market and transport hub.
The west and north
- Man: a mountain town surrounded by forested peaks, waterfalls and villages known for their masks and liana bridges.
- Taï National Park: one of the last large areas of primary rainforest in West Africa, a UNESCO site known for its chimpanzees. Visits are organised as guided trips.
- Korhogo: the main town of the Senufo people, known for weaving, painted cloth and wood carving in the surrounding villages. It lies in the Savanes region, parts of which are covered by official travel warnings, so check current advice first.
- Sudanese-style mosques: the north has a group of historic mud-brick mosques that are a UNESCO World Heritage site, such as Great Mosque of Kong. Most of them lie in the Savanes and Zanzan regions or close to the Mali border, in or near areas where governments advise against travel, as does Comoé National Park. Check current advice first.
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